After a lengthy delay at the Argentine border we finally bid Chile adieu on Christmas Eve and crossed over, making a beeline for El Calafate, 4 hours drive away. Chile had been amazing, we loved every minute of it – the sights, the scenery and certainly the people who had been overwhelmingly kind and generous to us everywhere we went. But Argentina had much in store as well and from our experience here in 2003 we knew what to expect, albeit this time at a much less frantic pace. Our loose plans ( such as one can plan at all these days ) would have us in Argentina for most of the rest of this trip – so big and quite simply so much to see.
Our first border crossing since returning. Chile to Argentina. Initially it looked a lot like Chile…..
Things looked very similar to Chile but with one big difference – travelling in Argentina was a fraction of the cost of travelling in Chile. People had told us that everything was much less – the first gasoline fill up and first supermarket visit certainly bore that out. Time to indulge a bit ( everyone does here ! ) so decided to enjoy a few nights in a nice hotel over Christmas – a welcome change from the confines of a pop up camper !
El Calafate offered more than just nice hotels ( though there were plenty of those ) – a vibrant cafe culture, countless bars, restaurants and pastry shops were all reason to stay a little longer ( and we did ), but the crown jewel among all its sights, and probably it raison d’etre, was the world famous Moreno Glacier.
Gasoline at just 38 cents US/litre. A nice change from Chile, where it is 3 times the priceThey made fine cappuccinos….…and there were cake and pastry shops everywhereTito’s – awesome Italian ice cream !
There is no shortage of glaciers to see in South America but the Moreno glacier has a couple of facets that distinguish it from the rest – it’s huge, it ends as a sheer wall of ice (giving it a more dramatic look) and most significantly, it is one of very few glaciers in the world that is actually advancing ( most are shrinking/receding ). Google “most impressive glaciers” and you’ll see that many sites rank it number 1 in the world. We have not seen enough to confirm that but it’s definitely top of our list, so no arguments here.
Moreno glacier from the nearby viewpoint – over the years the glacier has actually advanced closer to the viewpointOut on the tour boat. Gets to within 300 metres – it used to be 200 metres but 2 years ago a large piece of ice calved off and pieces of ice hit a nearby tour boat Cruising by the sounds are almost eerie – the creaking and splitting of the ice make for a great audio backdropIn one place a “cave” has formedThe sheer face of the ice……a substantial piece calved off in front of us. Loud !
Hard to top the Moreno glacier so for the next few days we simply enjoyed the many pleasures of El Calafate. Reconnected with our Belgian friends ( first met in Pucon, Chile and who had arrived in Argentina just ahead of us ) and enjoyed spending time with a group of Brazilians camped beside us who were also making their way south to the bottom of South America. Lots of tip sharing both ways, always one of the delights of bumping into other travellers along the way.
El Calafate sits on the edge of turquoise Lago Argentina which is fed from the nearby southern Patagonian glaciers. It always stays this color
North of El Calafate, when travelling Argentina’s famous Route 40 ( our plan ) there really isn’t a major centre until Bariloche, over 1,400 kms away so we needed to address a nagging issue we had with the vehicle air bags. Essentially, a clamp that held the drivers side airbag in place had worked its way loose but could not be tightened. It rattled loudly on rough roads ( so, quite often ! ) and with more of that ahead we just decided to replace it. Fortunately an English speaking mechanic was found ( and they are rare ! ) – in a few hours “Nico” had the old clamp cut off and a shiny new one put on in its place- no more rattles !
Nico, and thumbs up to a job all done !
Amost two months back on the overland trail had made our rig disgustingly dirty – I mean, the real baked on stuff ! This would need a high pressure wash bay where we could take our time and just clean it top to bottom. Found just one such in town so the two of us spent two hours getting the shine back on ( which likely won’t long on Route 40 north ) ! What is it that just seems to make a car/truck drive better when it’s been washed thoroughly- not sure but it always seems to !
The truck looked like new afterwards !Street scene El Calafate Street scene El Calafate The Swiss – always have the biggest rigs. This one seen in El Calafate You never travel far in Argentina without seeing a sign, poster or mural referencing the 1982 Falklands/Malvinas conflict with Britain. Very emotional topic down here. The mural recognizes their 649 lost heroes and says “Malvinas – yesterday, today, and always Argentine”
That’s a long blog subject but the last 10 days have indeed been busy, exciting, and ( for us personally ) very momentous !
The signature attraction in ( or rather, near ) Puerto Natales is the trekkers “Mecca”, Torres del Paine National Park ( locally referred to as “TDP” ). Whether you come for the famous “W” or “O” ( lengthy and challenging hiking circuits whose routes resemble those letters ) or simply to drive, ride or take the myriad shorter walks through the park as many do ( the latter not requiring advance booking and reservations ), one is never disappointed. The place is, in a word stupendous – we enjoyed 3 leisurely days there, did several shorter hikes, and never tired of the unique mountain shapes ( especially the famous “towers” and “horns” ), turquoise lakes, glaciers and abundant wildlife (highlights being the sighting of several condors and 2 pumas – well beyond our expectations ! ). Below are some of the shots we took- it really is a place like no other…!
In these parts one sees many guanacos ( a camelid, related to llamas and alpacas ). They often stared at us…..……and sometimes poked their tongues out at us !A quintessentially South American image………literally visible around every corner in TDPThe famous “towers” of TDP. Covered in cloud as we arrived they later showed themselves in all their glory ! As photographed as they are we were more impressed by the “horns” or cuernos ( see below )Bumped into this friendly Chilean family at Lago Azul in the northern part of TDP, a good viewpoint for the towers The ranger at the entrance suggested pumas might be visible near Lago Sarmiento so off we went. Not too long after we saw these two. Amazing to see them in the wild !The picture resolution drops with a long lens but they can be clearly seen walking away in the top of the picture. The view was very impressive with binoculars Typical scene around the parkAnd another, showing the “horns” ( black topped peaks on the left of the picture )One of the many waterfallsA hike to the viewpoint shown below – 80km/h winds are nothing to worry about – onwards !The “horns” of TDP from another angleMountain backdrop to beautifully turquoise Lago NordernskjoldCamping Pehoe at TDP…..probably one of the most beautiful settings of any campground we have ever visited !A picture stop on the way to Lago GreyThe glacier at Lago Grey
As hard as it was to drag ourselves away from TDP, not far south were two other “attractions”. Representing both the purpose and in a way the climax of this long drive, (but, hopefully, by no means the end of it ) the first of the two was the Fin de Camion ( “end of the road“ ) at Fuerte Bulnes, just south of Punta Arenas.
The Chileans ( and Argentines ) make much of the fact that you are at the bottom of the world with road signs everywhere reminding you just how far south you are ( “Fin Del Mundo” )
Our journey on the PanAmericana started at the northernmost road/community in continental North America, ( the Dalton Highway at Deadhorse, Alaska, USA ) back in May 2019, and concluded ( albeit significantly Covid interrupted ! ) this past Sunday, over 43,000kms later at the southernmost road/community on the South American continent, on Route 9 near Fuerte Bulnes, Chile.
Us, at the Fin de Camino ( end of the road ) sign near Fuerte Bulnes, south of Punta Arenas Chile. One can go no further south ( by road ) in continental South America ( some history of Fuerte Bulnes here )Map showing the end of the road with the end of the land itself, Cape Froward, just a bit further south
From here, the truck finally now points ( mostly at least ! ) north ! In case you wondered, no, we do NOT intend to drive it all the way back to Canada ( but it’s amazing how many people ask us that ) !!! Omicron travel restrictions permitting, we will drive up through most of Argentina, Uruguay and possibly southern Brazil before shipping it home from either Santiago, Buenos Aires or Montevideo sometime in the northern Spring.
Our trusty steed in front of the sign ( almost obscured by stickers ! ) and end of the road barrier near Fuerte Bulnes, Chile
Rather fitting that the last 18kms to the “end of the road” sign and road barrier on Route 9 was gravel ( getting used to it down in these parts ! ) since that is exactly what we started on in Alaska’s far north. A great feeling of accomplishment ( and much perseverance! ) to have completed it, but at the same time a little sadness that our biggest milestone was now behind us. The Fuerte Bulnes area is very scenic and peaceful, right on the Straits of Magellan and fittingly perhaps, we wild camped right there, toasting to the completion of this part of our overlanding journey – very serene listening only to the birds and the waves and watching ships pass through the very same strait that Ferdinand Magellan first navigated 500 years ago, way back in 1520 – this part of Chile, known as Magallanes, bears the Spanish spelling of his name on streets, plazas and buildings everywhere.
Wild camping on the Straits of Magellan at the “end of the road”The seaside road to the “end of the road”
A short ( 2 hour ) ferry ride across the above-mentioned straits brought us to the mystical island of Tierra del Fuego ( “Land of Fire” in English, known as TDF locally ) and the second of the two “attractions” south of Puerto Natales. Known for its remoteness, colder temperatures, arid landscapes, lots of sheep and unbelievably strong winds, Tierra del Fuego is split between Chile and Argentina and has attractions of its own, most immediately for us being the King Penguin colony just east of Porvenir (and still on the Chilean side). We’d not seen this during our 2003 visit to TDF (which was mostly spent in Argentinian Ushuaia on the south eastern side of the island ). It’s unknown to many but there are in fact a few places outside Antarctica that offer a place to see penguins in the wild; western Tierra Del Fuego being one we were not going to pass it up. And, King Penguins no less, second only in size to the Emperor penguins
Mesmerizing to watch these flightless birds – so beautiful. Hilarious to watch them walk ( well, waddle anyway )We were told they sleep standing up, nestling their beaks under their wings – tiring I would think !These two were doing a little “fishing”
The whole “end of the road” thing is actually a bit contentious down here – speak to a Chilean and the Pan Americana ends ( as it starts ) on “continental“ South America ( at Fuerte Bulnes ). The Argentines will have none of it and say it ends on Tierra Del Fuego ( even though it’s an island and not connected to the South American “continent” ). Thought we would do the former in full and as much of the latter as border restrictions allow ! A measure of just how ridiculous these “extremity” claims have become – Chile has now reclassified the small town of Puerto Williams ( which lies just south of Argentinian Ushuaia, albeit also on an island ) as a ‘city’ so they can boast the “most southerly city in the world” taking that claim from nearby Ushuaia, Argentina. Imagine, a “city” …….with a population of less than 3,000 people !
While near the King Penguin reserve we saw this scene- reminded me very much of Australia !Typical road in western Tierra Del Fuego – mostly gravel but not nearly as rough as parts of the Carretera AustralThere is but one objective when wild camping on Tierra Del Fuego – protection from the howling winds. Managed to find this little refuge ( ocean to the right ) but it was still a rough night. Slept with the roof down and used the emergency bed – the slats I had cut back in Coyhaique were finally put to use. Invaluable !
While in TIerra Del Fuego some exciting news emerged re border crossings that was particularly relevant to us. Chile and Argentina were, it seemed, bringing forward the opening of one of the southern Patagonian crossings from January 1st to December 22nd….just days away ! We had long hoped to be in El Calafate ( Argentina ) for Christmas where we promised to treat each other to a nice hotel for a few days – if this news were true we might just be able to swing that. The wild camping of late had been great and driving the “long endless roads” of southern Patagonia appealing but the thought of a nice room, hot shower every day and a little space to spread out for Christmas was, well, tempting too ! With a PCR test possible in Puerto Natales and same day results available this just might work – the fact that we could not cross to Ushuaia on Tierra Del Fuego actually saved us a couple of precious days so a plan was hatched to head back to Natales, get our PCR test, and drive on to Argentina.
The roads down south ( when paved ) often looked like this, a nice relief from some of the rough, gravel, washboarded, cliff hangers further north and …………..our trusty navigator even offered to take the wheel !
As we ( hopefully ) close out our Chilean chapter late this week both Lois and I wanted to wish all of our regular readers a very Merry Christmas ( or rather, Felice Navidad !!!!! ) and Happy New Year. Please keep the comments coming, we love hearing from everyone !
As exhilarating as the Carretera Austral was, few want to turn around and do most of the route in reverse ( count us in that club ! ), which is one option for ultimately continuing south by land but due to Covid border restrictions with Argentina ( at time of writing ) that quite literally means going all the way back to Puerto Montt and beyond; in fact likely all the way back to Santiago because that border crossing ( to Mendoza ) is currently the only one open to Argentina. Clearly not an appealing option!
Our German and American friends checking out the camper during our last day in Caleta Tortel. Four of the five had cycled the Carretera – my hat goes off to them !
The only other option ( for those with a vehicle ) is to take the weekly ferry south from Puerto Yungay all the way to Puerto Natales in Chile’s Magallanes region, the jumping off point for both Torres Del Paine National Park as well as our ultimate PanAmericana destination, Tierra del Fuego. The choice, if there really ever was one, was simple – we’d sail to Puerto Natales !
On the way to catching the Puerto Natales ferry at Puerto Yungay we crossed paths with this Swiss/Canadian couple. They had just come north on the same ferry so provided some useful “survival” tips !
This was a bit of a leap of faith. While the 44 hour ferry trip is a wonderful experience in itself we would now be 100% counting on Chile to deliver on its promise to open the Puerto Natales land border to Argentina on January 1, otherwise we would be at the tail end of a very long queue of Chileans (who book ferry passages many months in advance) to head north again. Save for the ferry, if Argentina remains closed off in the south there is no other way out ( again, for those with a vehicle ). Mindful of the limited options and following our “fortune favours the brave” ethos, on Saturday evening the ferry “Crux Australis” pulled out of Puerto Yungay – and we were on it.
The “Crux Australis” our ride to Puerto NatalesWhen boarding we noticed the crew strapping the vehicles to the deck. Overkill, surely? Not when we saw how much they bounced around when the ferry briefly crossed a fjord in an area that was substantially open to the Pacific …!
At this point quite a few travellers who’d crossed our path before came together – in fact 7 of the passengers were known to us – two Americans, three Germans and the Belgian couple we’d bumped into way back in Pucon were along for the ride, with most having the same game plan as us – exit to Argentina overland on January 1st. As the ferry journey wound its way south we met more travellers and enjoyed chatting with them all – helped to pass what were at times some pretty boring periods.
This on board route planner showed us the stops, and sights along the way, but…………most people used Maps.me or Google Maps on their phones to track progress ( not much else to do on board at times ! )
The weather was mixed – rained a bit, then sun, then cloud, then wind – you get it all in Patagonia ! Quaint towns were passed, got real close to a shipwreck with an interesting story, and saw some dolphins and bird life. Occasionally sightings of a humpback whale ( or orcas ) are made on this route but we were not so lucky. Visibility at the time also hampered us in seeing a few glaciers that can occasionally be seen from the ferry. Still, an interesting trip, great company, reasonable food and it was relaxing to let someone else take the wheel for a few days.
The ferry was comfortable and the chairs reclined to a position comfortable enough to rest in, even if they did not guarantee a good nights sleep. Fortunately we could sleep in the camper ( and keep the roof elevated – no need, in the end, to use my “emergency” bed ! )Mostly it was calm sailing, the seas looked like this…..…and thisA highlight was passing the wreck of the Capitan Leonidas, apparently deliberately grounded on a shallow bank in an unsuccessful attempted insurance fraud in 1968. We were all surprised how shallow the water had to have been – and we were in the middle of a fjord !Along the way the ferry called in at the quaint, and remote, community of Puerto Eden. The ferry is its only regular link to the rest of ChileThe fjords narrowed at times but were never quite as steep as those in Norway or even Milford Sound in New ZealandArriving in Puerto Natales…..the mountain backdrop appeared a bit similar to ( if not quite as level as ) Table Mountain in Cape Town
Once the ferry docked in Natales it was the usual mad scramble to get off. Our first stop was the ferry company port office to see if we could score a “backup” reservation to head back to Yungay in early January in the event the Argentine border did not open. Fortunately a spot was secured for January 6, cancellable until January 2nd should our worst fears be realized with the border not opening. Nice to know we at least had a way out if needed.
Campground in Natales. Nice view of the city, the harbor and mountain backdrop, but…..windy !
Natales easily occupied a couple of days for us with much of that time being used to prepare for a few days in Torres Del Paine National Park, replenish our supplies and generally enjoy a few sights while sampling the city’s excellent restaurants and cafe’s. Natales has quite the cafe and restaurant “scene” as the city sees a massive influx of both Chileans and foreigners between December and March as tourists descend on nearby ( world renowned ) Torres Del Paine National Park – and our next stop after Puerto Natales.
Celebrated the completion of the ferry journey with fellow travellers out back of the “Base Camp” restaurant in Natales ( group had grown with the addition of some Brits, and some Dutch folks and was too big to sit inside – Chile has strict Covid rules ! ).Cafe Holaste was a favorite – the best cappuccino and hot chocolate in Natales and we went every morning !
While in Puerto Rio Tranquilo the young lady at the tourism office strongly encouraged us to take a drive to Chile Chico, a small town near the Argentine border but running almost 100 km east from the Carretera Austral. It would, she said, offer some of the most stunning views of the Andes that you will see in the area.
Pulled up for a tea break on the road to Chile Chico ( overlooking Lago General Carrera ) and spent some time just soaking it up. The road became incredibly difficult just after this shot was taken.
That endorsement in hand shortly after leaving “Tranquilo” we took a hard left and headed east towards Argentina. She was right – the views, as we ran along the southern edge of Lago General Carrera, were impressive and offered a different perspective than we had from the normal north-south route . In reality we didn’t need to go all the way to Chile Chico since the first 50 km offered the most expansive views. Given that the road got incredibly challenging about 60 km in I figured it made sense to turn around and head back towards the Carretera. Chile Chico itself did not offer a lot other than being a popular border crossing back in the days when you could cross to Argentina wherever you wanted; not possible now but what a wonderful thought!
Tea break overlooking Lago General Carrera and the Andes mountains ( a tad windy as you can tell ! )
In fact the last 10 km of that road were some of the most dangerous we had travelled – real white knuckle stuff. Steep, deeply rutted, off-camber sloped dirt tracks on the edge of a steep mountain- the kind of road requiring a deft combination of light braking, judicious use of very low gears and a steady hand on the wheel at all times. Views aside we were quite happy to finish that detour ! Back on the Carretera itself with formal camping options limited the only choice was to boondock – and the Carretera provided us a nice option near Puerto Bertrand positioning us for an easy drive into Cochrane the next day.
Roadside boondocking near Puerto Bertrand
Cochrane ( as unlikely a Spanish name as you’ll find ) and the last town of any size on Route 7, was named after a British naval commander ( Lord Cochrane ) who assisted the Chileans in establishing their own navy during their independence battle with Spain. An easy place to spend a couple of days, we topped off our supplies and fuel for the long haul south to Villa O’Higgins. On a whim I wandered into the hospital to ask about Covid shots ( Chile was well down the path of 3rd shots – boosters – and we qualified age wise). With Omicron rearing it’s head globally and our original immunity waning it seemed a prudent step to take. Could not have been easier – a walk-in clinic was being held that day and we were both jabbed an hour later ( with Pfizer, no less ! ).
Lois in Cochrane waiting for her Covid booster shot. Mild ache in the arm and a slight headache for a day or two after were the only side effects.
The final run into Villa OHiggins was an easier drive than expected – the 45 minute ferry ride from Puerto Yungay to Rio Bravo included, it was about a 5 hour trip…..hard to believe we were almost at ( quite literally ) the “end of the road” – the Fin de la Carretera. Sharing the moment with some German and American cyclists, a slew of Chilean motor cyclists and a few other Chilean vehicles was memorable – El Mosco was the campground of choice in O’Higgins. We’d all travelled the 1247kms (+ + when you include the many detours most people take ) seen some amazing sights and had some great tales from the road to share.
Ferry crossing the Mitchell fjord between Puerto Yungay and Rio Bravo en route to Villa O’Higgins. Main street, Villa O’Higgins. Never much traffic, the kind of place where everyone looks up when a new car pulls inUs, doing a selfie, in front of the “Fin de la Carretera” sign. Over 1,247kms after starting in Puerto Montt it was the end of ( this ) road. Both exciting and sad at the same time. We had been on it almost a month.Ella and Paul, two young Germans who had cycled the Carretera Austral and who we had bumped into a couple of times en routeLois, on a one of our Villa O’Higgins hikes ( there were many in the area ) with a dog that adopted us !View to Lago O’Higgins from near the mirador ( lookout )We were told the stream near O’Higgins had some of the purest water in Patagonia so we tried it. Properly boiled of course and no ill effects ( yet, anyway! )
For many of us the route south would not end there and by the time we left O’Higgins 4 days after arriving we’d met ( or knew of ) 11 other travellers that would be meeting up in Puerto Yungay for the long ferry journey south to Puerto Natales this coming Saturday. There were other foreigners around after all and a nice change after substantially flying more or less solo to date.
With a couple of days to kill prior to the ferry a side trip was made to Caleta Tortel ( a coastal village built substantially on stilts ). Extremely popular with Chileans, it was here we spent our last couple of days before the ferry. No campgrounds here either but we did manage to score prime real estate in the ( almost always full ) town parking lot up above Tortel with great views of the bay and our own ( more or less private ) deck ! Wild camping at its best……..
An impressive peak on the road to Caletea Tortel Typical road scenery between Puerto Yungay and Caleta TortelCaleta Tortel from above. The town only got road access not long ago and was for a long time only accessible by ferry In Tortel almost everywhere one walks on stilted pathways – there are no roads, nor vehicles, in the town.For boondocking in a town this is about as good as it gets ! Parked up against the walkway, a deck just behind us with a great view, and the ever present local dog to watch over us ! Taken from camper door.
The last task in Futaleufu was to visit the nearby Argentine border and get clarification from the Chilean border folks as to exactly which Chilean borders would open in the south, come December 1 and then January 1. This was critical information and would determine both our route south and the transportation method ( driving or ferry ). I’ll spare readers the intricacies of the Argentine/Chile border crossing options in southern Patagonia but suffice it to say that with none of those critical borders currently open we could be looking at an extraordinarily circuitous road route to visit both the Chilean and Argentine attractions that we had hoped to see in the Tierra Del Fuego area. Turns out it was a good news/bad news” story. The bad news was that none of the borders that we needed to cross would be open in December.
Border guys in Futualeufu telling us which borders would open next. They were extremely accommodating ( not much else to do at a closed border I guess )
The good news, as seen below, was that finally, on January 1, a critical southern border was scheduled to open ! For us, assuming it all played out as planned ( and news of Omicron was just breaking leading to new international restrictions ) this would mean being able to complete the Carretera Austral and travel all the way down to Villa O’Higgins, returning back Puerto Yungay and then taking a Chilean ferry through the southern fjords down to the very bottom of Chile. The ferry through the Chilean fjords is a spectacular journey itself, saves us a lot of driving and would have us in Tierra Del Fuego for Christmas. All going well with the border opening as scheduled January 1 it would then be possible to cross to Argentina and work our way back north through Argentina after exploring southern Argentina’s many attractions. With fingers tightly crossed the ferry was booked from Puerto Yungay to Puerto Natales for December 11.
This was important – we did not want to just ‘hear’ it, we wanted to ‘see’ it. The Chilean border officer actually showed us on his phone that the January 1 openings included Rio Don Guillermo ( near Puerto Natales ) which was just the one we needed ( in the south )
That all settled, back to planning the rest of the Carretera Austral !
Road leaving Futaleufu ….realized as we drew closer that these were sheep !On the Carretera even some of the major bridges were single laneWhile the roads got rough the views stayed consistently impressiveMap showing the end of the Carretera Austral in Villa O’Higgins. One then drives back as far as Puerto Yungay to take the ferry to Puerto Natales at the very bottom of South America.
While light rain fell almost constantly on the road to Puyuhuapi, it was a visual treat, albeit rough at times and marred with ( the ever familiar ) roadwork. Puyuhuapi is not particularly attractive but has some interesting German history and more famously is the jumping off point for one of the Carretera’s top sights – Ventisquero Colgante ( the hanging glacier ). Reached by an ( at times ) fairly challenging 3-4 hour hike, the glacier is amazing; had we arrived 10 minutes earlier we could have seen the deafening calving that we heard when we were still a few hundred metres away.
Entering Puyuhuapi a town founded by German immigrants in the 30’s. Strong German influence in Southern ChileMet up with Johannes, a German biker and the first foreigner on a foreign registered bike we’d seen in Chile. Normally there would be many and prior to Covid we had seen manyEntrance to the magnificent Vintesquero Colgante hike in Parc Nacional QueulatCrossing the first bridge to Vintesquero Colgante View on the way up…The hike required navigating some narrow creek beds….….to reach the stunning view at the top of the hike Closer view……heard some calving on the way up ( loud !! ) but missed seeing itSelfie time
The road from Puyuhuapi to Coyhaique was one of the tougher sections of the Carretera, lots of gravel, lots of rain, lots of washboarded surfaces, lots of steep hills and hairpin bends – but all in a days drive on this road. As someone told us, never a dull moment…!
Some pretty steep roads just out of Puyuhuapi , all under construction – lots of delays but the scenery was impressive Cascada ( Waterfall ) La Virgen ( on the way to Coyhaique )Roadside flowers near Coyhaique The colorful wildflowers were all along the roadside between Puyuahapi and Coyhaique Close up of the Spring flowers
Disconcertingly, on arrival in Coyhaique, it became obvious that what we thought was just a faulty ( propane ) heater was in fact more serious when the ( gas ) cooktop also suddenly stopped working. How I would explain our propane issues, in Spanish, to someone who could work on an American system ( and find needed parts ! ) in the middle of the remote Carretera Austral was a nerve wracking thought. Fortunately our camp host “knew a guy” and if ever there was a time we “needed a guy” this was it. “Juan” turned up at our camp site at 8pm, stayed till 11pm working on the system and quickly identified a faulty regulator as the issue. Of course, the regulator itself was readily replaceable, and he had one on hand, but the connections ? Of course….all different ! A colleague of his had worked on several foreign ( to a Chilean gas guy anyway ) propane systems, had some cannibalized parts left over and by a stroke of miraculous good fortune these allowed him to tightly connect the new regulator ( property leak tested while we watched ! ) and get the system working perfectly. A huge relief, we could now stay warm AND cook again !
Juan, the gas technician who worked on our propane problem Leak tested, every fitting, while we watched
Delighted to have the propane issue now resolved the next few days were spent exploring Coyhaique, a small city of about 65,000. Easy to get around, we enjoyed beautiful sunny days there after a couple of drizzly ones, and all our shopping ( and repair ) needs were met. It also seems the camping facilities are just getting better as we go south – “El Camping” in Coyhaique was one of our faves so far. Secluded, private, close to town, strong wifi, best hot showers and cleanest bathrooms we have seen yet AND they helped solve both our our bedding and regulator problems ! As seems to be a pattern in Chile they also had the most adorable animals that stood watch over our camper.
Downtown street scene in Coyhaique Another street scene in Coyhaique Candy and Blanco were always at the bottom of our steps…………while kitty just loved to sleep under the truck in the camper steps box ! Reminded us of the new pups that adopted us in Villa de Leyva, Colombia
Even got in a little emergency ‘construction’ work on the camper. With the aid of a piece of irregularly shaped plywood, our dinette folds into an emergency bed – we had kept the said plywood with us for the last 6 years until I carelessly left it at the campground in Pucon during a clean up two weeks back. We would need this for the 41 hour ferry ride to Puerto Natales ( there are no cabins on board and while we CAN sleep in the camper we will NOT be able to pop the roof up ).
Borrowed a saw from the campground owner and cut some “slats”Not the perfect platform I had lost but a few pieces of tongue and groove slats cut to length would close the gap we needed to make our emergency bed ! Voila’, an emergency bed. Better than two nights sitting bolt upright on a crowded ferry !Italian food tonite ! We seem to eat a lot of it, always washed down with excellent Chilean wine ( and beer ) ! Their cheese is pretty good too.
Leaving Coyhaique on an overcast rainy day we expected a 3 hour trip to Puerto Rio Tranquillo, renowned for the Marmol ( marble ) Caves. Between the weather, countless construction delays and some slow traffic ahead of us, we managed to turn it into a 5 hour saga. I say saga because the road was substantially gravel, and rough gravel at that – loose rocks, ruts, corrugations, steep slopes and narrow cliff edges made it well, shall we say….interesting ! But, just another day on the Carretera Austral. The trip did present some interesting sights and even the weather improved by mid afternoon to reveal the grandeur of azure Lago General Carrera as we rolled into our campsite.
The roads were indeed steep at times….but not quite as steep as this sign suggests ! Freaked us out at first though.As we drove into Villa Cerro Castillo the eponymously named mountain was covered in fog and cloud. On the way out the clouds parted to reveal this – quite impressive !Had always imagined the “gauchos” to be an Argentine thing but this horseman ( herding cattle by the road near Cerro Castillo ) sure looked the part ! I showed the picture to a local Chilean who confirmed he was indeed a gaucho ( and obviously that Chile also had gauchos ! ).Typical of the miserable conditions on this day – road and weather !Just before Puerto Rio Tranquilo, we passed this idyllic scene. Looked much like the South Island of New ZealandWe passed so many motor cyclists that we lost count ( a few hardy cyclists, too ! ). While almost all were Chilean registered motor bikes many foreigners come to Chile just to do the Carretera and rent Chilean bikes. Saves the shipping headache
Puerto Rio Tranquilo is a small, rustic Patagonian village whose sole purpose seems to be a base to tour the nearby Marmol ( marble ) caves. A pit stop for almost all who tackle the Carretera, these multimillion year old marble caves are found on the shoreline of Lago General Carrera just outside ‘Tranquilo’. We’d seen pictures and they looked impressive so we were keen to get out on the water and check them out ourselves. They did not disappoint – I probably took more than a hundred pictures but narrowed the selection down to the following handful. Definitely worth a stop for anyone who comes this way !
View from inside the caves Marmol caves – can you see the dogs head ?Marmol cavesMarmol cavesMarmol caves
The PanAm completed in April, 2022 and with the truck camper sold, we shipped our new Sprinter van to Australia in late 2022. We travelled there through all of 2023 and into 2024 before shipping it up to North East Asia where we travelled for 4 months between Korea and Japan, before shipping it back to North America. It’s our plan to continue exploring the world in 2025.
