South Australia – The South

South Australia – The South

I’ll preface this week’s blog with some news that we are absolutely delighted to share ( with those that don’t already know ) – we are going to be grandparents in mid- August ! Our daughter and her husband are expecting and we will take some time out of our travels this northern summer to be home for the much anticipated arrival of the baby. Very exciting stuff for us all. Our daughter is doing well and busy preparing for big day. It does, of course, move things around for us a bit – essentially we’ll now be very focused on the desert part of our trip and the weather dependent regions of Australia in the north between now and August. We’ll then return and focus on the southern part of the country ( as the Aussie summer approaches ). Hence, especially after our long delay in Melbourne, a bit of a “push” now to get to the Outback ! Fortunately it’s already the direction we were heading.

There is of course a more direct route from the Great Ocean Road ( where we left off last blog ) to Adelaide ( our next major destination ) but based on the advice of several folks who’d gone before it was decided that the coastal route offered some better vistas. There were indeed some memorable highlights – the stunning Blue Lake in Mount Gambier, as well as the sunken garden, along with the popular coastal towns of Robe and Victor Harbor ( two on our route that really stood out for us). The coastal route ends up crossing Australia’s mighty Murray River ( in our case via the punt at Wellington ). Much of the first part of the coast ( the “Coorong”as it’s called) is fairly monotonous- low scrub, some really tidal swampy areas and for us, some less than ideal weather to see it in. That said, we did enjoy great wild camping by the ocean in Port McDonnell and again just outside Robe and Kingston SE; nothing like going to sleep with a cool sea breeze, the distinct smell of salt air, and then waking up to the sound of crashing waves..!

Our travels since last post.

View from our wild camp at “Granites” on the Coorong area in SA. Sadly, not such a nice day.
This spot ( “Granites” ) was very popular with travellers!
Sunset, wild camping Port McDonnell
Sunken garden, Mount Gambier.
Ditto
Blue Lake, Mount Gambier
Blue Lake, Mount Gambier
Blue Lake
Bumped into a Chilean/Australian couple in Mount Gambier who’d done some serious global overlanding !
Typical Coorong scenery. It was not the most exciting part of our travel on the coast.

A little bit of local history I was not aware of.
Coffee break, Coorong, SA.
The obelisk, Robe, a very picturesque and historical town on the South coast.
Coastal scenery, Robe
History of the Caledonian Inn.
Original limestone building, the famous Caledonian Hotel, Robe.

Punt across the Murray River at Wellington, SA.

Australian Cockatoo’s, our campground, Port Elliott, SA
Chatting with fellow campers Craig and Jenny, in Port Elliot. Like quite a few we have met they sold up their home, ordered this custom rig and are currently travelling Oz – then shipping it abroad to travel the world.
Downtown Victor Harbor
The jetty, Victor Harbor. The island is a great walk !
Enjoying a coffee, Victor Harbor.
The cacophony of cockatoos ! Victor Harbor.
Pretty scenery on the Fleurieu Peninsula

At one point the diversion to Kangaroo Island was considered ( being so close on the Fleurieu Peninsula ) but on arrival at Cape Jervis the weather was very gloomy – on sober second consideration it seemed to make more sense to delay Kangaroo Island until we come this way again ( and we likely will ) when the weather is better – it’s also a very expensive short ferry ride so we’d like to see the place at its best. Onwards then, to Adelaide ( and the Barossa Valley ) just an hour away, some great sights and a long overdue rendezvous with a cousin I’d not seen in over 40 years.

My cousin, Michelle, and her husband Michael who hosted us in Adelaide. Checking out our “home”.
Our packages had arrived ! Michelle kindly allowed us to have some critical parts shipped to her home in Adelaide .Here, Lois with Michael, Michelle’s husband.
Downtown Adelaide, from across the River Torrens.
Lois, spoilt for choice in Adelaide Central Market !
Some local specialties ( check the labels closely ).
The famous Bradman Stand, Adelaide Oval. Of interest only to cricket fans !
Barossa Valley, Australia’s most famous wine region, just an easy hour’s drive from Adelaide.
Prophetic words- Chateau Tanunda winery, Tanunda.
Jacob’s Creek vines, Jacob’s Creek – our first wine tasting.
Lois getting what seemed like a private wine tasting, Chateau Tanunda ( we were the only guests at that time ! )
Stopped by Yalumba to pick up a couple of Lois’s favorites.

From the Barossa region it was an easy drive to the Yorke Peninsula where we had a couple of days exploring before driving on up to Port Pirie, for us basically the stepping stone to adventures further north – there’d be some van work to do ( minor repairs ), a little WW2 nostalgia to investigate, some serious stocking up on supplies and the purchase of a two-way radio ( an essential item, we’re told) for life on the long desert roads ahead.

Incredibly there is a walking path right around the Yorke Peninsula – we did not have time to do it ( it’s a very long walk !).
These folks waited by our van in Port Vincent – the lady said her dream was to travel the world in a Sprinter . Her husband inside checking it out.
Silo art, Yorke Peninsula
Port Hughes beach, Yorke Penisula, famous for the color of its sand and the turquoise water.
South Australia has some of the best preserved classic Aussie pubs, two here on the Yorke Penisula.
And the second, Yorke Peninsula.
WW2 photos, Port Pirie gunnery school, 1943/44 where my father trained before sailing to the war in Europe. A bit of a nostalgic visit.
Plaque commemorating Australian airmen who trained at the Gunnery School, Port Pirie. My father was here in 1943.
The fan motherboard needed to be replaced – it took hours !
Fan motherboard replaced – one of the critical parts shipped from the US. Would not want to have been paid by the hour for my labour, but got it done ! It failed days prior to shipping from the US with no time to replace it.
….the new water filter, not so long !
The lady at the tourist information office in Port Pirie said this was “not to be missed”. Hmmmm….not our cup of tea !
A major re-pack while camped in Port Pirie – making room for desert travel essentials. We’ll start organized even if we don’t STAY organized !
“Carry lots of drinking water”, we were advised, in advance of our first foray into the desert.
Classic railway station, Port Pirie,
Downtown Port Pirie.

From Port Pirie we’ll head to Maree, the end of paved roads in South Australia, then the desert tracks beyond.  We haven’t even gotten to the part of South Australia yet that we are most anticipating ( the “Outback” ) but have already been amazed by the beauty, scenic variety and fascinating history of the state-  it’s delivered us some very pleasant surprises.

Till next week….

The Great Ocean Road

The Great Ocean Road

Queenscliff pitches itself as a jumping off point for that most well known of  major tourist attractions in Victoria, the Great Ocean Road ( G.O.R. ), however that honor more accurately belongs to nearby Torquay. This world famous coastal road, stretching for 243kms from Torquay almost to Warnambool, was was constructed mostly in the 1920’s predominantly by returned WW1 soldiers and is now considered a permanent memorial to those who died in the war. A huge engineering feat in its time, the route shows off the state’s stunning coastline, connects formerly remote seaside communities and draws tourists from all over.

A map of the area. Torquay is indisputably considered the Eastern end but some claim the Western end extends beyond Warnambool to Port Fairy ( likely the good folks in Port Fairy itself ) !

The Twelve Apostles ( coastal rock structures ) are the primary attraction but there is also plenty of wildlife in the area – kangaroos, wallabies, koalas and all manner of bird life are easily spotted and we were fortunate enough to see them all. The route is usually covered in  a few days since there are countless opportunities for day hikes, taking in panoramic viewpoints, and various rainforest walks. We’d been before but still spent three days exploring it end to end….and could have spent longer !

Sign marking the start of the Great Ocean Road.

A short drive across the bottom of the Bellarine peninsula from Queenscliff soon had us in Torquay, the road’s Eastern starting point. Considered Australia’s surfing mecca ( RipCurl was founded there and still maintains its global headquarters in Torquay ), its a thriving “hip” town also known for nearby Bells Beach ( considered one of Australia’s finest surf beaches ).
Bells Beach was in fact preparing for a major surfing competition just as we passed by so we happened to catch quite a few surfers in the water showing their stuff. Just a handful of sightseers while we were there, but in another 10 days, the place would be absolutely packed.

Surfers, Bells Beach.



Over the next few days, the Great Ocean Road took us from Torquay all the way to its terminus just before Warnambool, delivering a plethora of outstanding coastal photo ops, more animal sightings than we’d expected, some super camping locations, incredibly coincidental meetings with other travellers and superb weather on the critical two days we needed it – it certainly did not look like we’d pull that off as we left Torquay. Since most our time on the G.O.R. was more or less a collage of photo ops I’ll keep the commentary brief this week and let the pictures tell the story – suffice it to say we absolutely loved the experience and could not recommend it highly enough to anyone that comes this way…..you’ll not be disappointed !

It was the animal sightings that we saw before we really got to see the more stunning coastal formations for which the G.O.R. is deservedly famous. Kangaroos and brightly colored Rosellas, were feeding right in front of us at the remote Hammonds campground in the mountains about 15kms inland from Lorne, well away from the traffic and nearby towns. In fact, we had the campground all to ourselves.

Kangaroos inside the first campground we stayed in near Lorne.
They stayed still for a short video.
In Cape Otway there is a rainforest walk which we really enjoyed, and shortly after got a nice koala sighting ( next pic ).
A koala in the wild spotted just outside Cape Otway Park.
A replica of the original marker starting the beginning of the GOR.
Coastal view from Teddy’s Lookout, near Lorne.
Beth ( US ) and Will ( Canada ) who saw us in the van and stopped to talk. Turns out they, too, had just completed the full Pan American highway ( in a truck/camper no less ) !
Beside the starting point marker is a memorial to the ex-soldiers who built it.
Seems there have been some problems with foreign drivers on the Great Ocean Road forgetting to stay on the left while in Australia. We saw this type of sign near every lookout and viewpoint.

The road briefly leaves the coast and passes through some very typical Australian countryside. Sheep grazing with a morning mist in behind, here just after our second night camping on the G.O.R.
The bugs were not bad at this time of year, especially in this area but we thought this was a good time to experiment with the bug screen we had made specifically for the sliding door of our van.. So far so good !

It was not until our third day travelling the G.O.R. that the sheer coastal formations and famous “Apostles” came into view – its is some of the prettiest coastline you’ll see anywhere. In a couple of places you can actually descend some pretty steep stairs cut into the cliffs and go right down to the beach ( being careful not to get stuck down there with no exit as the tide comes in ! ). Here, some of our better shots in no particular order:

Rock cliffs on the G.O.R.
Arches visible from a G.O.R. lookout on one of the many short walks.
Free standing “Apostles”.
One of the larger Apostles near Gibson’s Steps ( one of the few points where you can walk right down to the beach against a sheer cliff).
Us, at the bottom of Gibsons Steps.
Same view from a distance.
Video of same…..note the size of the people walking against the towering cliff.
Distant coastal view .
Lois bumped into these folks on a GOR walk – turns out they are from Penticton, just an hour from our home town of Kelowna.
Many Apostles have fallen, and more will in the next years but as the cliffs erode, so too more will more form.
A large Appstle.
“The Grotto” – as pretty a picture as we took on the GOR.
Us in front of a rock formation known as the “Grotto”.
Grotto video.



Following the GOR, our travels took us further west, on through busy Warnambool ( a huge cheese producing region ) and on to Port Fairy, a town that surely ranks as one of Victoria’s coolest little coastal communities. It’s an attraction in itself and probably deserves more time than we gave it but we overdosed a smidge on its more famous neighbour. Port Fairy is also the last major community on the coastal route to South Australia – our next destination.

Waterfront, Port Fairy.
Thriving Port Fairy, downtown. Could not find a park, every store and every cafe ( and there are many ! ) were full.

Till next week….

Australia : Our First Weeks On The Road

Australia : Our First Weeks On The Road

One could be excused, having waited so long for our van, for wondering where to start now that the whole country was finally open to us. Funnily enough, there was still lots to do right here in and around Melbourne before we went anywhere else. Darryn ( my nephew) and Rebecca and their kids provided a warm welcome and, as a real bonus, Darryn made himself available to help out with some transitional electrical issues before we set off travelling in a world of 240v when our van was configured for 120v – that and a few other minor electrical odds and ends ! Minor, of course to an experienced electrician ( which he is ) but potentially a challenge to one far less skilled and with a very small set of tools ( me) ! Darryn also took some great drone footage for us ( see below ). Guys, it was wonderful to have such a great place to come for our first few “set up” days – thanks so much for helping us out !

Van now in hand first port of call was to my nephew, Darryn and his family, who live in Melbourne. Oops, I almost forgot, “Pickle” their South American Monk Parrot !

With our rig all unpacked we were able to more accurately assess what had been stolen en route and what had not- hard to recall every item you travel with but I think we got most of it- now to make a claim. With our own wheels available it was time to revisit nearby Mornington where we had some appointments set up for things we needed and then to explore some of the places we’d missed during our first brief foray through the area .

We explored Mornington comprehensively before crossing by ferry to Queenscliff at the end of the week.
We tackled the electrical issue by installing a 240v (input ) charger ( the unit that is ceiling mounted ). Can’t always rely on driving to charge things up, nor the sun, so now we can “plug in” ( in a sense ) to Australian shore power when camping.

Darryn, connecting up our front light bar. Sprinters must have the most inaccessible batteries of any vehicle !

Installing the 240v charger…..
Lois, Rebecca and Eli out for a walk along the Maribyrnong River.
Darryn made a short drone video of our van. Shows some nice footage of us all working together to get the rig ready for some serious travelling in Oz !

It was a huge relief to have all those electrical matters sorted out ( thank you, Darryn ! ) but among the things stolen was the solar controller for our external solar panel, so that had to be replaced. Here the good folks at Retropower ( Victron distributors for Victoria, who’d earlier supplied our 240v charger ) came to the rescue again, replacing the stolen unit with a new Victron one and giving me some sorely needed training in combining these new components with our existing system. The aim was simple – harvest as much energy as we could when driving ( via our DCDC charger ), as much as possible when parked ( via our solar panels – 700 watt rooftop and 300 external ) and when neither of those options was available having a workable mains power solution. I’m confident we now have just that.

Darren, from Retropower took care of our new solar controller and gave me some useful Victron training !
My Victron components lesson 😊

A couple of ladies kept looking at our van while at Retropower, and eventually they came over for a peek. Could not believe it had come all the way from Canada !

While visiting Mornington during our earlier stay in Melbourne we’d seen some great camping spots at the bottom of the Peninsula so vowed to return when we had our own “wheels”. School holidays over, we were delighted to have no issues at all scoring a great site at the Whitecliffs Reserve near Rye. A great spot to rest up, swim, shop and really explore beautiful Mornington over the next week. While there we continued testing and changing a few things with the van to ensure it was configured as optimally as possible for some of the longer, and harder treks that we planned for the months ahead – better to get these kinks out when it was a comfy 25 degrees than when it’s 40 in the desert. Once we were comfortable with it all and had exhausted our interest in Mornington, we crossed the entrance to Port Phillip Bay on the ferry to delightful Queenscliff.

Day 1 camping by a beach in Mornington. It felt very good !
The advantage to a late summer visit – great beaches, water still warm, and almost deserted !
I may travel with Vegemite, but Lois always brings a little bit of Canada with her, too !
We designed the camper so that we could cook “inside/outside”. With the sliding door wide open, cooking inside actually feels like you’re cooking outside ( without having to move all your stuff twice ! ). So far it’s been working as planned !
Beachside spot in Rye. We kept coming back here as it was just a great location from which to explore Mornington. There’s also something very soothing listening to the gentle lapping of waves outside – we slept well.
The classic “General Store” in funky Flinders. Of all the villages we explored around Mornington, Flinders was one of the nicest.
Flinders Pier, with a view across to Phillip Island.
Cape Schanck Lighthouse.
What could be more Australian than a weekend game of cricket ( the batsman was out, caught behind, off that very ball ! ).
Coastal view from Cape Schanck Lighthouse walking trail, Mornington Peninsula.
Relaxing, Rye pier.
Beachside walk, near Rye
Ferry line up, Sorrento. The ferry takes just 45 minutes to cross from the Mornington side to the “Bellarine” side ( the former to the south east of Melbourne, the latter to the south west).
Oddly (😊) it’s mostly the younger crowd that inquire about our van – here on the ferry with some young local guys, curious to look inside. They seemed quite wrapt in the fact it was so big and still a 4×4.
Dolphins entertaining us on the Sorrento-Queenscliff crossing – leaping out of the water, a highlight of our week.
Mornington Peninsula to
….and even doing backflips !
A short video clip….
Classic old buildings, downtown Queenscliff.

Our first night in Oz “boondocking” or “wild camping”. It wasn’t so “wild”, just a nice quiet street near a Queenscliff park where another traveller had already settled in for the night.

Queenscliff ideally positions us next week for our first major Aussie attraction – Victoria’s famous “Great Ocean Road”.

Till next week…….

Shipping A Vehicle To Australia – Review

Shipping A Vehicle To Australia – Review


Disclosure: This week’s blog is specifically written in order to share details, costs and the relevant processes of shipping a personally owned vehicle ( “POV” in shipping slang ) from another country to Australia.. I’ve thus split this blog into two parts: PART ONE – of general interest to readers who might wonder why we chose the shipping option ( versus others ), and PART TWO – which contains a great deal of detail and specific information ONLY relevant (and of any possible interest) to others who are contemplating bringing their own vehicle in. It will not be of ANY interest to you if you are not considering doing this yourself ( in which case you should pay close attention !) unless, perhaps, you have a particular curiosity about such an endeavor ( and few will ! ).

We relied very heavily on the shared experiences of others who went before us so this is simply a little “paying it forward” with more current information. I know a number of prospective overlanding “shippers” were looking for specific details of our experience, so, in lieu of our regular weekly ( “what we’re doing, where we’ve been” ) blog, here it is ( I’ll return to the regular stuff next week ! ).The extraordinary and unprecedented delays we ( and many others ) have faced in getting our cargo unloaded at the Port of Melbourne through January and February (that’s in 2023, in case you’ve not previously followed our regular blog ) would indeed make the casual reader question why someone would ever take on this somewhat daunting, incredibly time consuming and of course, rather expensive endeavour. The short answer is that if you travel long enough in Australia it actually does make sense, and such extraordinarily long shipping delays are usually very rare – obviously no one plans on encountering them. But, when you are caught up in them, like we were, there is simply nothing you can do but make the best of the situation ( difficult though that was at times !). This was our story.

PART ONE: Our Recent Experience

Our van parked on the port in Savannah, Georgia awaiting loading for Melbourne.
Fumigation is done on the port of embarkation so theoretically it arrives in Australia ready to go. Our own shipper and other staff we spoke to in Melbourne said ( currently anyway ) almost all cargo is still marked for further washing on arrival.

It’s certainly fair to say that this whole port delay experience ( finally resolved on March 10 after a week of extraordinary stress )  put rather a damper ( temporarily anyway ) on our grand Aussie adventure. The fact that there was significant theft from our vehicle did not help. Obviously one takes with them ( on a plane ) anything and everything one can but weight restrictions mean you are practically limited in that regard. A lot of stuff stays with your vehicle and there was theft from the parts of the van that we simply could not secure. It’s an inherent risk on any RoRo ship since the vehicle is unlocked during the whole passage ( port drivers need to be able to drive it on and off ). We are insured but the deductible is fairly hefty and there are exclusions. We’ll be happy if we recover just most of what was lost. Undoubtedly some of our readers must be thinking, “Jeff, Lois – was it really worth it ?”. Timely then, perhaps, that I address a couple of questions we ALWAYS get asked when discussion comes around to why we shipped our vehicle from North America to Australia.

Here, 4 large RoRo ships unloading on the day we picked up our van in Melbourne.
In every port we have ever been in, an escort is required for security reasons – Melbourne is no exception. They were extremely efficient in getting us processed and on our way once the biosecurity checks were done. The Port of Melbourne staff were really excellent.

Other Options

The first question asked ( almost always ) is “Isn’t it expensive?”. Yes, it is. And travelling in a rather large van makes it more so ( an SUV with a rooftop tent – a very common overlanding choice – would cost much less ). Shipping RoRo it’s all about CBM ( cubic metres ) – the higher, longer, and wider your rig is the more you pay. It’s different than a container – if your rig fits in one of those ( our van does not, but our old truck camper did ) the cost is the same no matter how much you can stuff in it. Regardless, the absolute cost is essentially irrelevant- the relevant question is how does the shipping cost compare to the two other options for someone outside Australia  planning an extended ( in our case up to 15 months ) trip around Australia and wanting to do it in an off-road capable vehicle with the features we wanted. It’s here that the equation generally still tilts ( usually heavily ) in favour of shipping your own vehicle in and out. Let’s take a look:

Option 1:

“Did you look into renting something ?”. Yes, we really do get asked that ! It’s not that the question itself is illogical ( it isn’t ) but rather the implication that we never thought of it. In short, it would be prohibitively expensive to do that. It’s a practical solution for a short trip ( 1-3 months perhaps ) but beyond that, ( even with a healthy monthly rate discount ) costs just go parabolic.  It would be ridiculously expensive to rent a basic car for a year ( just $50/day comes to over $18,000 ) but a heavily customized, near new 4×4 camper would easily be triple that – or more. Driving mostly during “high season” it goes up from there. The very basic motorhomes we travelled with in New Zealand, as a simple guide, rented normally for $550NZ per day during the NZ summer months. Prices in Australia are likely comparable. And those were VERY basic vans. Larger, fully equipped, off road capable 4×4 vans are hard to find. We quickly eliminated renting as an option.There’s also that constant feeling you have when renting that “every extra day is costing me X dollars” causing many travellers to rush or take short cuts. Not what we wanted – we’d prefer to take the big financial hit up front and stay longer without the daily cost anxiety.

Readily available, but expensive to rent and smaller than we wanted – something like this will, however, go absolutely anywhere !!!

Option 2:

“Didn’t you consider buying one and selling it before you left ?”. Absolutely, in fact that is what most people end up doing when they realize the obstacles/cost to bringing in your own vehicle. We have actually done that before ( in Europe ). In 1985 ( in our early 20’s ) we bought an older VW Kombi camper in London, travelled Europe and North Africa for 6 months with it, absolutely loved it, then sold it when our trip was done. We paid £900, did not spend a pound on it, and sold it for €750 at the end. A good deal by any measure !

The orange 1973 VW Kombi we purchased in London, UK in 1985. Our first experience shipping a camper anywhere.

It’s hugely common to do that in Oz as well, and there are companies that will actually sell you a vehicle and guarantee to buy it back off you, usually for about 60% of what you paid if you don’t want the hassle of selling it yourself. Simple, fair and actually pretty easy – when you have a relatively inexpensive vehicle. If you move up to a higher end, fully equipped, late model, custom modified, 4×4 camper, you are looking at a very substantial up front investment and thus a commensurately substantial potential loss on sale. Drop just 10% of the purchase price and you are easily looking at a $15-20,000 +loss, in addition to having substantial capital tied up in your Aussie vehicle while you likely have your own vehicle at home depreciating away. And that probable loss assumes you can find a buyer who wants exactly your kind of rig, lives in the city you are trying to sell it in, has the $$ to buy it ( or can finance it ) and wants it right when you plan to sell it. That’s a LOT of stars to align for this to be an effective solution. Get the currency trade wrong and you could easily lose another $10,000 + just on that ( but you might win, too ). Of course you would also need to start thinking about selling it long before you finish travelling with it. Suddenly “buying and selling” ( especially with a higher-end vehicle ) is not as easy or cost effective as you might think. The “Returning to Canada, must sell quick” pitch is not likely to get you top dollar, either ! We thus eliminated the “buying and selling” option almost as quick as the “renting” option.

Ship your own wheels and the world is your oyster !

Further Considerations

Beyond the above analysis, there were several other very relevant reasons why we opted to ship our own vehicle to Oz:

1) We had shipped a vehicle internationally twice before ( Panama-Colombia and Argentina-USA ) and were thus very familiar with the process – this was not our first rodeo. It is not something everyone is comfortable with, and there are risks, but we knew we could live with them.

2) I had put almost a year and a half of blood, sweat and tears into building our rig and was not about to leave it sitting in Canada and then rent/buy another one – quite honestly, it was NEVER going to happen, regardless of how the economic analysis shook out ! It just seemed like the most totally pointless thing to do. For many others this will factor into the analysis as well.

3) Most importantly though, it’s not our plan to just ship it to Australia and ship it right back when we are done. While Covid has taught us all to be flexible in our plans, one can ( and should, I think ) still make plans at least – just be prepared that they may not work out ( been there, done that ! ). Our dream is to continue overlanding after Australia which means travelling through more countries with our van ( ideally via Asia or Africa ). With the world right now in a state of flux ( open warfare  in places like Ukraine, Myanmar, and many others ) who knows what way we will take the vehicle back to Canada, but we certainly do hope to travel overland with our van well beyond Australia. Given that is the goal, it’s just totally impractical to either rent, or buy/sell, a 4×4 custom camper everywhere we might go……and that is why no one does.

PART TWO: Is This For Me ?

If you are in the overlanding Australia mindset and still with me, you’ve possibly now convinced yourself ( like we did ) that shipping your vehicle to Australia may be the way to go. Below are some pertinent details from our experience between December, 2022 and March, 2023 using a Wallenius Wilhelmsen Lines RoRo ship. We were advised that the cost was the same whether we embarked from Baltimore or Savannah ( we chose Savannah, it was warmer in winter ) and regardless of which East Coast Australian port we disembarked at ( we chose Melbourne simply because it was the first port of call ). Tacoma, Washington was much closer to us ( as a departure port ) but the freight quote was considerably higher and it involved transshipping in Panama ( hence the added risk of theft and damage as our vehicle was moved from one ship to another in Panama ). What we saved departing from Savannah covered the extra driving cost to get to Savannah ( vs Tacoma ) – and we got to see more of the US and Canada.


The Numbers – What It Cost

For those readers who may have wondered out loud, I hope the above analysis makes some meaning of our crazy lives and why we sometimes do the things we do. For those who wondered just what it did cost to ship a 42 cubic metre ( CBM ) vehicle from the East Coast of the USA to the East Coast of Australia, here is our breakdown, rounded off:

Savannah to Melbourne ( incl. port charges in Savannah plus sea freight ):   $7300 USD

Shipping insurance :                                                                                        $850 USD

Quarantine /Ag fees in Australia:                                                                    $390 AUD

Port fees/Inspections/Cleaning/Port transport fees in Melbourne:                    $1750 AUD

Using an AUD/USD average rate of $0.67 this comes to : $9,585 USD or $13,180 AUD

Other Costs/Matters To Consider

So, not cheap – but it actually does not stop there. One should realistically also add $500-$600+ USD or so for a Carnet ( which is required for Australia) . Exact cost depends on the country of issue and depends on where you are from. There are some costs for getting to the port of embarkation ( fuel/campgrounds/Ubers – we spent almost $800 USD just in fuel to get to Savannah from Kelowna ) and some further costs for waiting in the port of disembarkation when you do NOT have access to your van – hotels, Ubers and eating out certainly add up quickly. We were fortunate to mitigate these latter costs as we had family to stay with part of the time but still ran up a fearsome tally of expenses due to car rental costs, AirBnB’s, hotels and meals out. These latter costs are often not considered but really should be factored in to any equation of cost/benefit of shipping yourself vs other options.

Administrative Considerations

Planning to stay in Oz for a year or more ( which you likely would if contemplating spending this kind of money just getting your vehicle there ! ) ? Unless you are a Kiwi or Australian ( and most folks doing this are not ), you’ll need Long Stay Australian visas ( 600 Class ) which require an application fee, a 20 page on-line application and, in many cases ( such as Lois’s ) a full medical and chest X ray at a designated doctor in your country who charges a fee to do such tests ( it was over $600 Cdn for Lois all in – and she’s healthy ! ), so count on close to $500 USD per person unless you get lucky and can avoid the medical testing requirement. Mind you, one bears these costs no matter what vehicle option you choose. Chancing it with a standard 90 day tourist visa could backfire if the ABF do not extend it – a risk we chose not to take. Our Sprinter van has to ultimately be returned to Canada of course but as we do not plan to return it directly from Australia it’s tough for me to estimate/quote a round trip cost – something less than double the one way cost though is probably fair.

We found the ABF folks ( Australian Border Force ) super easy to deal with and dealt with them twice. Firstly, when Lois entered on her Long Stay visa – we were prepared for questions about proof of funds, how long she intended to stay etc etc, but she was never asked – not even a stamp in the passport these days ! It took just minutes; very slick.

The application process for this visa can take around 90 days ( it took 55 for us ), so apply early. Their website is top notch and keeps you updated re status every step of the way.

Secondly, it was now my turn, as I had to present the vehicle Carnet to the ABF ( which is done just prior to the expected date of arrival of the ship – we had been in Australia for two weeks by this stage ) – it also could not have been easier. The vehicle is in my name so I asked about the extension process, in case one was to be required – no problem, it could be easily extended for another year. I asked what happened if I had to leave the country temporarily without the vehicle ? Also no problem, the Carnet is not linked to one’s passport, just park it securely, off the street and ensure no one drives it. The only requirement is that the vehicle leaves Australia before the Carnet expires. It was “stamped in” in less than 30 minutes and I was on my way. That legal approval to temporarily import the vehicle is then instantly communicated ( on line ) to the port people and quarantine folks so they know that when the cargo arrives (they still need to inspect it), it is legally approved for import. Key point (and this is true of most Australian ports of entry as I understand it ): the ABF folks that process the Carnet are NOT located at ( or even near ) the port. In Melbourne anyway, they are at ABF ( Customs ) House right beside Tullamarine airport. Plan accordingly. The fellow was super friendly, and no fee was charged. Emails and calls were promptly returned. At this point everything was just running soooooo smoothly.

Counter foil from Carnet, stamped “in” to Australia on the left. I’ll require a stamp “out” on the right when it leaves.

If this all sounds too easy and you figured the hammer was yet to drop, you’d be right. As you can see above the Carnet was stamped on Feb 6 and on that day we expected the ship to unload Feb 7 ( which was already much later than it’s originally scheduled arrival date of January 28 ). Here I’ll cut a long story very short – it sat out in Bass Strait for over 3 more weeks, finally unloading in early March with the unloading date pushed back on at least 6 or 7 different occasions. The wait to get it off the ship and just onto the port was excruciating. The physical vehicle inspection process ( by Quarantine ) was also very stressful – no other way to put it. Our vehicle had been thoroughly cleaned ( and fumigated ) in Savannah but despite that we’d been warned ( many times in fact ) that it would almost certainly require additional washing on arrival. It did, so that held things up further as did the fact that the Quarantine folks insisted on us completing a Form B534 ( Statement of Unaccompanied Goods ). The ABF folks had not mentioned this when I delivered them the Carnet ( which in any case already states that the vehicle contains camping goods and other effects ) so it appears that when the vehicle details where uploaded by the ABF to the Quarantine folks, no mention was made of the fact that it was full of all our gear. Quarantine were thus surprised to find so much inside the van. It was then that they asked for the B534 ( which we completed and returned within the hour ), but as a result they wanted a FURTHER inspection of all said contents ( presumably to be able to match what we said was in it with what they actually found in it ). That second inspection took another 3 days to arrange. I’ll save detailing the really stressful next part in the process because in the end it all worked out ok – the vehicle was washed at the port, reinspected, and finally approved for release March 9 – the next day we had it in our possession. Key point, best to come prepared with the B534 whether you are asked for it or not and be prepared to list ( in detail ) all contents of your vehicle. It’s just the way it is. We’ve crossed probably 35 land borders with a camping vehicle full of stuff and made 2 major ocean crossings ( and many shorter international sea crossings ) and never been asked for such detail or any declaration in advance. Just save yourself the trouble and prepare it in case ! It’s important to get your vehicle cleared and off the port quickly because storage charges ( beyond the 3 or 4 free days ) are horrendous – do all you can to make this part move quickly !

Sea-Bridge, a German outfit, have shipped more than 10,000 campers and vans abroad in the past 25 years and are quite expert at this ( we used them in Argentina ). For a period they were not even accepting bookings to Australia/NZ due to significant delays /costs. They are shipping to Australia again now, but their website still shows this warning.
Excuse the pun but quarantine can be this “sticky” – their own website describes the purpose built probes they use ( some with tape on the end ) to find and identify biosecurity risks in generally very inaccessible places. They are good at what they do and are very thorough…!

Insurance

While no one asked for proof of it at any point during the temporary importation of our van, Australian law ( like most countries ) requires that a vehicle have minimum 3rd party liability insurance. I can’t imagine anyone even thinking of driving without it. That is fairly easy to get in Australia ( Shannon’s Insurance were willing to do it for us ) but getting Comprehensive insurance for a foreign vehicle temporarily imported to Australia was MUCH more challenging. Most places we called ( and we called lots ! ) denied it to us since our vehicle either was not registered in an Australian state, or the exact model of our van could not be found on the Australian vehicle database. No match ? No deal ! The very same Sprinter that comes out of the German factory in Duesseldorf is classified by wheelbase in North America ( 144/170 ) but differently everywhere else in the world ( 416, 516 etc ). Ultimately we insured ours with a boutique insurer – KT Insurance – they were excellent to deal with. About 40% more than I pay in Canada but I thought that was reasonable given my other options ( none ! ) and the fact that our situation is a bit, err, “unique” ! I was honestly expecting worse. If your vehicle is more “truck/utility-like” and a 4×4, “Club 4×4” will do it. Ours was too “RV- like”. NRMA in NSW may have done it so they are worth approaching if you come in through NSW ( Port Kembla ). At least they did not flat out decline us like many others.

For those overlanders seriously contemplating shipping to Australia, I’d be happy to share more details of our experience. Contact me through the website at [email protected]. We have learned a tremendous amount in this process and it would be a shame for all those learnings to go to waste. The quarantine side of the experience is BY FAR the most challenging part ( and probably the reason many people who overland other countries baulk at shipping to Australia )- do not underestimate how seriously the Quarantine folks take their mission, it is unlike anywhere else in the world with the possible exception of New Zealand. It’s not just me emphasizing that- shippers will ALL tell you that ( my own shipper did ), as will anyone who has done it and posts on various overlanding FB groups will bear it out. The recent finding of harmful Asian snails on a shipment of new Chinese cars has caused many more vehicles to be inspected, and this has caused the port unloading backlogs that we were caught up in, so part of our delay may have just been unfortunate timing. The process I have described above likely won’t change but at some point the serious backlogs they are facing now will clear up. Check with your shipper in advance of your proposed departure so you can better manage your delivery expectations – good luck !

Leaving the Port of Melbourne – on this happy day it just all seemed suddenly very worthwhile !


Hope this helps answer some readers questions, and for those overlanders looking to do this I hope it helps in your considerations. As for the “Jeff/Lois, was it really all worth it ?” question, we are very confident that by the time we leave my amazing homeland, having explored it thoroughly, the answer will be a resounding “Yes !” – you can count on a full and detailed analysis of that when we get to that point. For now, we have a lot of country to explore.

Reunited – And It Feels So Good !

Reunited – And It Feels So Good !

Forgive me borrowing this week’s banner from the classic Peaches and Herb song, but after 84 days apart ( we last saw our rig on  December 14 in Savannah), over a month of which the Talisman sat just waiting in Bass Strait, and an at times traumatic experience getting through quarantine, our Sprinter was finally delivered to us on Friday, March 10 at the MIRRAT terminal ( for RoRo ships ) here at the Port of Melbourne. Hallelujah!!!!! To say we were overjoyed after such a long (and at times very tense) wait would be an understatement – we were deliriously happy to at last have our van and thus our travelling independence back !

A view of the Port of Melbourne. Nice to be on the inside looking out after so long on the outside looking in !

Reinstalling the Canadian licence plates on our van which we had carried with us on the plane. A favourite target of port souvenir hunters and VERY difficult to replace in Australia !!!

The good news ( and it’s mostly very, very good news ) was that the van itself was in great shape outside – no obvious nicks, scratches, bumps or bruises . I say that because the “Port to Port”  insurance policy that we had purchased specifically excluded coverage for any such minor issues and they are unfortunately quite common. So it was nice to escape that. The van started immediately, ran well and seemed to have lots of battery charge in it which, of course is another concern after such a long time of inactivity.

The not so good news ( in the scheme of things, not so horrendous but something that is always a huge risk on any RoRo passage ) – things were stolen from inside the van and it was obvious that the thief/thieves knew where to look. I had designed an impenetrable barrier to the garage area of the van where most ( larger ) valuables were kept so that saved us a larger loss, but the lock to the seat of our sofa (which was where we kept the smaller things we could not carry on the plane ) was bypassed when the intruders simply lifted the whole top of the seat frame ( by force ) and plundered what was in there. Frustrating, since we now need to deal with a claim and try to itemize everything that has disappeared ( easier said than done). 

Mirren, from the Port of Melbourne ( Mirrat ), came to document the loss/slight damage inside the vehicle. The staff were very timely and organized. She mentioned that such issues with campervan contents are not uncommon.

For all that, we are just glad to be mobile again and nothing was taken that prevents us travelling or that cannot ( fairly easily ) be replaced here – we are very thankful for that. We thought back to a Swiss couple we met back  in Argentina whose van travelled from Europe to Montevideo, Uruguay by RoRo ship. Their skylight was smashed to gain entry – the damaged skylight itself made travel difficult and was very hard ( and very expensive ) to replace in South America, in addition to some more significant valuables that disappeared as well.

So as not to make this an interminably long blog ( nor to take away from the overall feeling of delirious happiness we feel !!) I’ll document the final stage of the shipping saga next week (possibly in a dedicated edition ) for the benefit of those overlanders following our shipping experience to Melbourne ( and/or for those readers simply interested in the minutiae of the process ! ).

Leaving the Port of Melbourne – we had waited a long time for this moment !

The port collection process was very easy and ( apart from the time needed for the port staff to witness the loss ) quite fast – staff were super friendly and sympathetic especially knowing how long we had been waiting. With the van in our possession ( and constant reminders from Lois to “stay left” ) we drove off port, over the giant Westgate bridge and on to Maribyrnong (a suburb of Melbourne). A pit stop at Aldi to stock the van with groceries, then another stop to fill it with diesel after which we drove straight to the home of Darryn (my nephew) and Rebecca, where we were delighted to be able to park up in front of their house so we could unpack, clean and repack as well as make some electrical modications necessary for us to be able to charge the camper batteries on the Australian 240v system. Darryn’s an electrician – which helped immensely !

So much to buy when starting with a completely empty kitchen and fridge ! Lois at Aldi, Maribyrnong.
Parked in front of Darren and Rebecca’s house – let the repacking begin !

Both Lois and I are so thrilled to close off this week’s blog with such great news – there were honestly days when we questioned it would ever come ( but you know what they say – “Good things come to those who wait” ). I have included a few pics below of some travels we did in our last few days in Forbes and Temora, and of the journey from there back to Melbourne; those early days of the week seem almost forgotten given the excitement of Friday.

We now look forward to a couple of days in Melbourne to get settled into the van and then to finally, finally getting on the road again – a huge thanks to our family and friends who helped us so much along the way and especially to Kristy, the most patient and helpful shipping agent we have ever known !!!!

Our final local exploration trip from our Forbes “base”. Wonderful to explore so many small towns during our “wait” time, places I knew of but had not visited in so many years.
Lois enjoying the “crafty” stores in Millthorpe

Interestingly named Millthorpe winery.

Another example of silo art, this one at Yerong Creek en route to Melbourne.
The mythical “Ettamogah Pub” a famous Aussie institution ( near Albury ).
Our feature picture this week- so happy to finally be settled in Melbourne, WITH our rig !
Port of Melbourne: Update

Port of Melbourne: Update


Given the extraordinary delays in unloading the Talisman I decided to research what was happening in the nation’s ports – I came across an online article that pretty well spelled it all out ( see the link to it in the Postscript: Shipping Update section at the end of this blog). It’s a short but instructive read on exactly why we are caught up in this incredibly frustrating situation.

Melbourne’s notoriously fickle weather had been typically changeable this past week as we looked around the area for things to do to. Fortunately it had been mostly fine (changing really only from good to excellent), so on that front we’ve had little to complain about. Lots of days in the 30’s ( with one nudging 40 ) so it was nice to have a pool given the higher temperatures. Not as nice as our beach-side AirBnB, but “any port in a storm” as the saying goes ( can’t believe I’m now making “port” jokes about this train wreck of an unloading experience ). With our AirBnB available again by the end of last week we happily made the move back to Aspendale. Not only is it a very nice spot but we could actually look into the bay and see the comings and goings of all the marine traffic in Port Phillip Bay – one of these days the name on the ship passing by must surely be “Talisman” !

After a few days back in Aspendale ( which included a beach closure due to a shark sighting and some wonderful travels into the nearby Dandenong Ranges ) news reached us that the unloading of our van had been even further delayed. At this point the decision was made to employ a little “reverse psychology”. Staying in Melbourne and patiently waiting ( for over 2 weeks ) had not served us well so we packed up, grabbed a rental car, and drove back to Temora – surely, we thought, as soon as we leave Melbourne there’d be some movement at the port !

Near Olinda, Dandenong Range
White cockatoos, Dandenong Range.
Sir Paz Winery, Yarra Valley
Sir Paz Winery.
We enjoyed wine tasting here complemented with a delicious brick oven pizza. A nice view to enjoy while preparing the crust.
Wandering the vines, Sir Paz.
Shiraz grapes, Sir Paz.
Hugely popular with Melbournians, the chocolate (and ice cream) at the Yarra Valley Chocolaterie was divine. The place was absolutely packed – we could see why.
View from the Chocolaterie.
You could watch the chocolate making process and learn a bit of the history of chocolate.
On this particular day Aspendale beach was packed and lots of young kids were doing surf life saver training. Within an hour the beach was empty as a result of a shark sighting !
The shark was sighted just in front of the Aspendale Surf Club. Caught this clip on our TV as we went back home.
Turned out to be a “Blue” shark, not usually dangerous, but a frightening thing to bump into if you were in the water ( the fin looked just like all other sharks !!!! )
Lois had asked if sharks could come in this close – the beach is very shallow as you can see. “Unlikely”, I answered.
A beautiful sunset on our last night in Melbourne ( for now anyway ! )


Little did we know that in addition to spending some more quality time with my brother, Ian and his wife, Anne that there’d be even more aviation joy ahead while in Temora ( hard to top the Spitfire’s we saw flying around during our last pit stop here ). Their immediate neighbour at the Airpark ( Nick ) owned an F1 Rocket experimental plane and invited both Lois and I up for a couple of aerobatic flights. To say it was the thrill of a lifetime would be an understatement. Absolutely stunning to experience rolls and loops with an unforgettable view of Temora from 1,400 metres, inverted, flying at 400km/h and experiencing 4G forces while entering and exiting the loops ! A few images below and a great video of what a loop looks like in an acrobatic plane:

Rocket F1 plane
In the air with Nick piloting.
Sign in Nick’s hangar – and his plane goes faster than that !
Lois, in the Rocket F1 doing a 360 degree roll.
Lois, doing a loop…….inverted, at 400km/h, over Temora.



Now I can’t imagine anything that could top the experience of flying upside down and doing rolls and loops at 400km/h on a perfect Temora day. Well, there is one thing…..getting the keys to our rig next week (fingers crossed ). Stay tuned, and wish us luck !


Postscript: Shipping Update

The article referred to it as “A Total Ship Show”. Two weeks back, Josh Dowling of drive.com.au ( one of Australia’s most widely read motoring sites ) completed an investigation into the ever-increasing delays of new car deliveries into Australia ( our van is caught up in all this). If we needed to better understand why we are where we are then we got our answer in that article. Actually, there was more than one article – another here ( and at least one TV spot ) addressing the issue of long delays in Australian ports. If you’re interested in reading about any of it, take a look at either article. They certainly explained a lot of things for us.

In the first few days of the week ( we follow port traffic updates regularly ) the news went from bad to worse until late in the week we saw, for the first time in almost a month, that the Talisman had finally moved from Bass Strait and into Port Phillip Bay and simultaneously the Port Scheduling app showed that it’s “berthing” was being prepared. Hallelujah ! After the delays we had endured this was indeed great news. By week’s end the unloading was near complete. Next step will be an inspection by the quarantine folks on Monday at which point they decide whether our vehicle is clean enough ( so we get the keys and can take it ) or if it requires further cleaning and thus needs to be trucked to a certified offsite washbay before re-inspection by the quarantine folks. Let’s hope we have it all done by the next blog !

We looked at the app to see that finally our ship was inside the bay and heading to the dock, getting ready to berth. It has been such a loooong wait.
A day we had been dreaming of for almost a month – the Talisman finally berthing in Melbourne.

As the Talisman finally berthed in Melbourne, (almost a month after it arrived off the Australian coast) we began to think that there might at last be light at the end of the tunnel. Still some major steps before we get our hands on the vehicle, but it just might be (as Churchill famously said) at least the “end of the beginning” of this long, drawn out process of getting back in our rig !