Fresh from almost 1340 kms up and back the Dalton Highway in Alaska ( described in Post 2 ), it was time to rest up and recharge in Fairbanks. After a few fairly exhausting days on long, dusty, potholed roads the comforts of Fairbanks were a welcome relief – hot showers, laundry facilities, a great selection of food and drinks, and a Japanese restaurant were all enjoyed before heading east and ultimately back into Canada.
The ’shortcut’ back to the north Yukon took us over the scenic ’Top of the World” highway via the quaint community of Chicken – last stop in Alaska before crossing the US/Canada border . The highway got its name due to the unusual nature of the road – unlike most roads through mountains which follow the valley floors, this road ( for the most part ) hugs the high ridges giving it a ‘top of the world’ feel. Chicken is an old gold mining centre ( still actively mined ) with only basic facilities but what must be one of the coolest bars in all Alaska – local legend has it that the town gots its name when town founders could not agree on the spelling of ‘Ptarmigan’, the name originally proposed !
Town of ChickenBar in Chicken
Chicken’s 3 stores
Dawson City, Yukon, home of the 1898 goldrush, never disappoints and probably has one of the best visitor centres we have come across – that and a visitor centre for the North West Territories ( across the street ) where we stocked up on tips about our planned run up to Tuktoyaktuk on the Dempster Highway in the days to come. The mandatory warnings ensued……drive slowly, watch for wildlife, take extra tires, extra fuel and be prepared for long distances between services – hey, that’s what make it such an adventure ! Jokes aside we were very much looking forward to the Dempster Highway and knew much of what had been explained to us in Dawson ( the jumping off point for the trip ).
Historic buildings in Dawson City and the impact of building on permafrostGoldrush era paddlewheeler in Dawson City
In the past days we had started bumping into other travellers at campsites with the same route in mind – getting to the Arctic now that Canada finally had an all season regular road to travel on. Seems that remote, hard to get to places, will always attract a diverse assortment of visitors – we’d already met 3 young Dutch travellers sharing ( and sleeping in ) in a mini van, a retired single lady from Ontario, a couple of Americans on motorcycles, several Swiss and Germans in true ‘overland’ vehicles shipped to Canada for the adventure and more Kiwi’s in rented truck campers than we have ever met in one place ! These would all become friends in the coming days as we traversed an almost identical route north – on 900kms of very dusty, rough, unforgiving gravel road.
Out of Dawson and on the Dempster our first stop was to be the very famous Tombstone Territorial Park – alas, the weather was not in our favour so rather than linger we pushed on to Eagle Plains pushing the Tombstone stop out to the return journey ( it proved to be a good call since folks we would later meet were to wait 3 days for the weather in Tombstone to change ). ‘Fair’ would best describe the road conditions – lots of loose gravel, and in some places severe washboarding reminiscent of the Dalton just a week before. Nothing like a trip up the Dempster to remind one just how big ( and beautiful ) this country is with every few miles bringing something different. One surprise – and we could not help but compare the road to the Dalton ( as everyone did ) – was the relative lack of bigger wildlife; no moose all the way up and just a black bear and two cubs and a fox on day two, yet it made the scenery no less stunning.
Jumping off point for the Dempster Highway, just outside Dawson City
Campground at Eagle Plains
Crossing the Arctic Circle just north of Eagle Plains, Yukon Crossing the Peel River Typical tundra scenery Black bear near Eagle PlainsFox with fresh kill
Day two took us all the way to “Tuk”, crossing the Arctic Circle, the Continental Divide, Yukon/NWT border ( gaining an hour and an appreciation for their markedly better roads ! ) then passing through both Fort McPherson and Inuvik. Doing so involved crossing the Peel and Mackenzie rivers on seasonal ferry’s which had only started operating a few days earlier – one can’t arrive here before June 1st or it’s a long boring wait at the Eagle Plains campground ( a trap many fall into every year we are told ). Finally, at around 7pm on Wednesday, June 5th, and after over 7,500kms ( 4,000 direct, the rest due to our detour via Alaska ) we pulled into the “Hamlet of Tuktoyaktuk” right on the shores of the Arctic. We’d made it – no flats, no broken windshields ( and praying we could duplicate that feat on the way back ). That all said there is really not much in “Tuk” – a very small community and still getting used to the fact that they are now ‘connected’ by road to the rest of Canada ( the all season road was completed only in November 2017 ). The tourism infrastructure, while very limited, is not stopping a throng of adventurous types from making the pilgrimage north – it remains to be seen how this tiny community will cope with their sudden fame. Like all before us we made the requisite photo ops at the ‘Welcome to Tuktoyaktuk’ sign and the Arctic Ocean signs on the waterfront, dipping our feet in the cold Arctic for good measure. Today, as far from Kelowna as we would get and as far north in Canada as it is possible to drive – tomorrow would begin the long journey back.
Long stretch in the NWTPingoes outside TukArriving in ‘Tuk’ -7pm and broad daylight. It remained the same at midnight making it difficult to sleepRight to the top !Lois ‘dipping’ in the Arctic OceanTuk hamlet Heading back south !
As in, ‘Highway’ to those unfamiliar with the road and the main subject of our 2nd post. The very word ‘highway’ is a misnomer if ever there was one – 415 miles of potholed, washboarded, and frost heaved mud track would better describe it. Lois had suggested that we change the name of our blog to “OneHorrendous Road” in its honor !
Dalton Highway near Antigun Pass
But, alas, I am getting ahead of myself. Last I left off, we had arrived in Whitehorse, capital of the Yukon and, more sentimentally, where Lois was born and spent her very early years. Not a lot to see ( and our 3rd visit ) so more of a supply stop only. The next few days saw us camping at the always magnificent Kathleen Lake ( Kluane National Park ), still in the Yukon and just bordering Alaska, soaking up some great weather and enjoying a couple of hikes. We largely followed a fairly well worn path on through the aforementioned Alaska Highway but diverting south from Tok down the Tok Cutoff to Gakona, before turning north up the Richardson Highway to Paxson at the eastern end of the famous Denali Highway. A seasonal road only, we’d missed it on our last trip up so made sure we took it in this time. Camping there overnight, we saw plenty of wildlife, stunning vistas of the Alaska Range and, nearing the western end of this 135 mile gravel track, peek a boo views of Denali itself.
Kathleen Lake, Kluane National ParkProving you CAN be in two places at once – Lois with a foot in BC and one in Alaska !A long stretch of the Denali Highway
Denali National Park was the main attraction – we had hoped to see a grizzly bear this time and while it was distant, with binoculars we managed to get as clear a view of a grizzly bear in the wild as we had ever seen. Not the kind of thing you want to be much closer to ! A large female moose with 2 newborn calves was another highlight.
Heading north again we got to Fairbanks and used it to resupply ourselves for the next 3-4 days on The Dalton. Reaching Deadhorse ( or Prudhoe Bay ) would put us as far north as it is possible to drive in North America and at the very northern end of the famous Pan American Highway. Save for a short shipping detour around the impassable Darien Gap in Panama, it is possible ( and we plan ) to ultimately drive all the way to Ushuaia, Tierra Del Fuego, at the very southern tip of Argentina.
Crossing the Arctic Circle
The weather was on our side as we set off ( always a bit dodgy this time of year, but hey, travelling now you avoid the brutal mosquitos that will be out in force in 2-3 weeks ) and made Coldfoot our first stop. More or less half way up ‘the track’, and a dusty, muddy camp more than a town, it famously got its name during the gold rush era when some of the prospectors got ‘cold feet’ on the long trek north and turned for home at this point. It was here that we met Cristiano and Maria, a Brazilian couple ( along with their teenage daughter ) travelling the Pan American highway in a camper, coming ( obviously ) from south to north. Our paths crossed often in the next few days as we followed the same ( only ! ) route north ( enjoyed some photo ops at the Deadhorse Store ) and back to Fairbanks again. The route is truly remote, and the scenery stunning – wildlife was not as plentiful as the last trip up in 2011 but we managed to see moose, black foxes, caribou and the amazing musk oxen ( see pics ). Sadly, the road is now much more travelled ( likely in part to the fame it received often being the subject of the ‘Ice Road Truckers’ series ) and is in much worse shape as a result. Horrendous frost heaves, ruts, washboarding and giant potholes were just a few of the hazards – that said, we managed to complete it up and back with neither a flat tire or a cracked windshield – two of the most common souvenirs one takes away from the Dalton Highway ( I claimed it it as the result of my fine driving, Lois attributed it to her repeated advice to ‘Just slow down, Jeff’ ! ).
The Ram truck was from Hawaii – the owner shipped it over to ‘Do the Dalton’Hawaiian plates – really !Caribou on a lonely stretch of the DaltonMusk OxenWe made it – Deadhorse, end of the Dalton Highway !Filling up in Deadhorse, for the return trip with our Brazilian friends behind usNo ‘scenery’ in Deadhorse itself – just oil service equipment everywhereAntigun Pass, Brooks Range on the return‘Dalton mud’Moose near Marion Creek, Dalton HighwayThe Dalton – one long, endless road……..!
Last post, I mentioned a fellow we met at Liard Hot Springs who had hitchhiked with his dog all the way across Canada. We thought that was a long ‘hitch’. While driving the Dalton we twice passed a young man – incredibly – WALKING the route. We had wondered how long that might take and speculated on the challenges of weather and other obvious dangers. Back in Fairbanks, as luck would have it, we bumped into our Brazilian friends who asked if we had seen ‘Mateus’ walking the route. Indeed we had, and had speculated on what a long walk it was. In fact, for Mateus, the Dalton was just the beginning – his ultimate goal ( and he had a 2 year timeframe ) was the very same as ours – Ushuaia, Argentina ……only he was doing it on foot !
Week one saw some long stretches of driving as we headed to the more interesting attractions in the far north. Our route took us initially via the Yellowhead Hwy with stops in Valemount, then Grand Cache, Fort Nelson, Liard Hot Springs and on to Whitehorse which completed our week. Read on for more details.
First night camping in Valemont, BC
Not that southern BC lacks attractions but we’d simply seen most before. Intermittent rain and low cloud marked the first two days often restricting visibility and making planned detours around scenic Jasper somewhat pointless. Changing up the obvious route north via Kamloops, we had taken the Forest Service Road between Salmon Arm and Barriere which introduced us to the beauty of Adams Lake ( of the famed ‘salmon run’ )- the price paid was a filthy truck as the gravel road somewhat predictably turned to mud in the prevailing weather. I was keen to test the vehicle in these conditions and it handled the road admirably…!
Shortly after leaving Jasper the wildlife got more interesting with significant herds of mountain sheep by the road – and one lonely moose ! Surprisingly little other wildlife to be seen. Turning north out of Jasper, Alberta’s Highway 40 proved rather flat and dull and the only reason we chose it was that it was one of the alternate routes north we had not travelled before – at least the weather was improving. In advance of hitting the more remote ( and consequently expensive ) communities of northern B.C. and the Yukon, Costco in Grand Prairie was a great supply stop…..endless food choices and Alberta’s famed cheap gas and cheap booze ! We loaded up.
Rather uneventful driving through Dawson Creek ( starting point – or ‘Mile Zero’ of the Alaska Highway ) and Fort St John but the scenery improved noticeably as we neared Fort Nelson – signs warning of wildlife on the road proved bang on and much excitement accompanied our first black bear sighting. Hours later we had stopped counting as we had seen so many -deer were also in abundance. Camped in Fort Nelson for the night and we met ‘Rick’, a true ‘Sourdough’ ( one born in the Yukon ) who, along with his wife, was returning to Whitehorse from an annual 6 month ‘snowbird’ trip to Yuma, Arizona. We reckoned it had to be one of the longest snowbird runs of all. Rick kindly helped with some invaluable Yukon highway tips when I asked questions about our proposed route. ‘Take plenty of spare tires on the Dempster ( Highway )’ he said, and seemed relieved when I told him we had two. ‘You’ll need them both’ he predicted. Hopefully not, I thought. In a curious kind of way I had hoped we might need the extra spare. Not that I like changing tires any more than the next guy but fitting in this extra spare ‘in case’ really used up a lot of precious space in what used to be the back seat of the truck, adding considerable weight and some irritating squeaks to the vehicle as it bounced around on rougher roads.. Somehow actually using it would vindicate the decision to take it along I thought. Time will tell !
Stunning views views from Summit Lake Pass were an early highlight on the road from Fort Nelson to Liard Hot Springs but more was in store – caribou, more bears, mountain sheep and other wildlife were seen often as we drove on through some of northern B.C’s most stunning scenery especially in the area around Muncho Lake. Note to self – next time in the area reserve a campsite at Strawberry Flats campground on Muncho Lake ( we picnicked there and found it one of the prettiest settings in any camp ground or rest area we had seen). Two weeks from now and it would certainly be packed with campers.
On a previous trip to Alaska we’d stumbled across Liard Hot Springs and vowed to revisit if we ever had the chance. With no hard schedule we stayed a couple of days this time and, apart from some irritating smoke in the air from an Alberta wildfire, found it as relaxing and beautiful as ever. Licence plates are a great guide to how famous a place is and a quick perusal of other campers’ vehicles showed plates from as far afield as Florida, Ontario and Georgia. A great place, ‘off the grid’, and a welcome respite from miles and miles of endless highway driving. Well, not everyone was driving. Standing out front of the campground was a young man with his backpack and dog, waiting to ‘hitch’ a ride west to Dawson City. Unsuccessful the previous day he had slept overnight by the road side and was forlornly waiting for that rare driver that picks up a hitchhiker – certainly an adult male. I approached and asked where he had come from and where he was going. Montreal to the former and Dawson City ( home ) to the latter, he answered. I suggested that hitching with a a dog could not be increasing his odds of a ride. Indeed not, he replied……..but it kept the bears away ! Of course.
Liard Hot Springs
Well and truly rested after a couple of days at Liard we followed the Alaska Highway westward as it zig zagged between BC and the Yukon, crossing the Continental Divide and several markers of note attesting to various aspects of the construction of the famed road – built in just 9 months between 1942 and 1943 as a supply road to Alaska in response to fears of a Japanese invasion in the north. it never came, thankfully, but the road was a catalyst for much of the subsequent development of this formerly remote region.
We managed to make Whitehorse at the end of the first week, which was about where we thought we’d be. One of the joys of travelling just ahead of the busy school holiday season is that the roads see far less traffic and campsites are invariably available on a drop in basis. No problems getting accommodation and some of the nicest sites we have encountered anywhere ! A month from now and that won’t be the case ! Lots of shopping to get caught up on ( big towns are sparse up north so one saves one’s ‘to do list’ for when you pass through ). On a nostalgic note, we visited the house Lois spent her early years in, having been born right here in Whitehorse.
We are Lois and Jeff, of Kelowna, BC, Canada. Recently retired with a serious overlanding travel bug, we hit the road in our truck camper in May 2019, initially tackling the Pan American highway. The PanAm completed in April 2022, and truck camper sold, we plan to continue exploring again later in 2022 in our Sprinter 4×4!
