What a difference a week makes. In fact, really just a a couple of days…….
Throughout the Covid 19 crisis to date both of us had remained resolute that we would carry on and see this through fully expecting to be asked to voluntarily self quarantine at some point where we were. I would not describe Chile’s approach as in any way lax but it had remained very much business as usual throughout the country ( with the standard precautions ) right up until just before I posted last week’s blog ( Salar de Uyuni and Beyond). Peru and Argentina ( the immediately neighboring countries ) by contrast had taken seemingly draconian measures – particularly targeting foreign travellers, some of which were very disturbing and, in some cases, absolutely xenophobic.
Glad we had gotten out of Bolivia days before that border closed and ultimately glad we did not enter Argentina, we, along with many other overlanders, felt very comfortable being in Chile. In the ensuing days, that all changed quite dramatically and with it our original plans to tough it out for what we expected would be a “few weeks” in Chile. The warnings were suddenly coming thick and fast and from every direction. Below, in no particular order, were the changes we saw in a just a matter of days:
1. An ominous warning that it was “time to come home” from Canada’s PM. Canada’s ability to do much to help us was quickly diminishing. We knew there simply were not enough planes to get everyone back and once borders closed, and nations went into “lockdown”, returning would become a logistical nightmare.
2. Airlines started cancelling flights……en masse. Not just cancelling, but announcing that services were being cut indefinitely. One headline had it that there would soon just be 6 international flights out of Canada, likely none of those to South America. All flights to South America would cease as of March 25. That date was just days away.
3. All borders were closing and curfews were being introduced. Everywhere. Internal movement was quickly being restricted as well – this would cause a real problem for us living in a camping vehicle
4. Disturbing stories began to emerge on our primary sources of information “on the ground” in South America – the Pan American Travellers Association Facebook group, and the “Stuck in Chile” WhatsApp Forum. Campgrounds and hotels were closing to foreigners ( where would we stay ? ), initially mostly in Argentina and Peru but reports were trickling in about the same thing in southern Chile, which is where we were headed. Foreigners were denied access to ferries in some places. In other cases, in Argentina, locals were blocking roads preventing foreign vehicles from entering towns. Locals were reporting the presence of foreigners to the police who in a number of cases escorted the said foreigners out of town – heavy stuff
5. Military and police checkpoints were starting to appear and the first shortages of things were emerging. On top of this, early warnings about it likely just being a “2 week shutdown” to beat the virus, were being amended upwards to much longer periods. Reliable sources were suggesting many months at least. With winter coming on, and our window to complete the Carretera Austral closing quickly, we reluctantly followed most other overlanders in making plans to get out….while we could.
When overlanding it’s not just a case of jumping on the first flight out, even if there is one. We had a vehicle to deal with, on a temporary import permit, so needed to arrange an extension with Customs. Application submitted – approval pending. Hopefully not an issue down the road. We also sought out Customs at the airport to discuss leaving the vehicle ( it’s supposed to leave with us when we go ). No time to arrange shipping of the vehicle and in any case we planned to return in a few months and continue the trip, so the priority was to find suitable, secure, reasonably priced storage near Santiago and then to arrange flights ( if we could ).
At this point the “Stuck in Chile” What’s App Forum was a life saver. Kind hearted local Chileans and some resident foreigners who were part of the overlanding scene and who had space started offering storage. “Juan Pablo” came to our rescue and we secured the truck, rapidly unpacked it and left it with him in a town just outside Santiago. He even took us to an airport hotel so we could tackle our next challenge – getting a flight out. There were others who helped out as well, and the Chileans ( in our experience ) really stepped up – our campground host in La Serena had also offered storage if we were stuck ( thank you, Chris ! ). I include below images of a few other kind offers of help at what was an incredibly stressful time for all of us.
A quick search of Expedia yielded a suitable flight on LATAM via Los Angeles so that was secured right away for Saturday night. Devastatingly, just hours later, it was cancelled. Back to square one. The only other affordable option was a Delta flight via Atlanta, but it was not until Monday and we feared it too may get cancelled as more and more US states were going into “lockdown”. In the end, incredibly, we got space on Air Canada using Aeroplan points and we had just enough points for two one way flights. Three more nights and this flight would no longer exist. In fact, when we left Saturday night from Santiago, Air Canada was one of very few international flights that was NOT cancelled. Never have we been so happy to see an Air Canada plane at an airport…!
I can’t begin to describe what a relief it was when we were “wheels up” out of Santiago and then again when we touched down in Toronto ! Unsurprisingly the connecting flight to Kelowna was less than half full……no one is flying that doesn’t absolutely need to.
We had effectively been in personal isolation in Chile for almost a week anyway ( aside from the airport transits and flights – the higher risk of infection there was something that worried us of course ). On arrival airport staff in Toronto reminded us to self isolate for 2 weeks once we got home. Fortunately we have a completely self contained and unoccupied suite in our home so that won’t be an issue and we should not interfere with the comings and goings of our kids in the weeks ahead. Boredom, hopefully, will be our biggest problem…!
So, our Pan American adventure is now on hiatus, along with hundreds of others in the same situation who have stored their vehicles all over the continent, but we do plan on returning to Chile as soon as circumstances allow, and to pick up where we left off. Something tells us that will be more than just a couple of months – in any case, even if it is 5 or 6 months that should give us time to enjoy a nice summer in the Northern Hemisphere and allow us to restart the journey as spring/summer arrives in the Southern Hemisphere ( October/November ). Time will tell…..the whole world has a serious virus to fight in the meantime.
Obviously I will put the weekly updates on pause for now. To our hundreds of loyal readers, thanks for following along on our journey, thank you for your comments, and rest assured we will be back at it as soon as we can. Stay safe, we will all get through this !
Jeff and Lois
Wow! Glad you are home and ok. Let me know if you need anything while in your safe lockdown
Thanks Chris,
Much appreciated …!
Hi Jeff!
I am so happy go hear that you guys were able to get back to Canada safe and sound! I can’t imagine how awful it must’ve been trying to plan everything and seeing flights get cancelled over and over! Hope that you and the family are enjoying your summer thus far and that you’ve all had an opportunity to relax and have some fun at home!
Cheers,
Paulina
Hi Paulina !
So nice to hear from you and thanks for the kind thoughts. Yes, we were indeed thankful to have gotten back when we did. It’s been great to be back with family and friends but almost 4 months on and the novelty has definitely started to wear off; we are itching to fly back and continue on and will do so as soon as we can. Stay safe yourself and say hi to the whole gang for me….!
Welcome back home neighbors. I recently saw Nicholas when I was out for a walk and he told me you folks are back and living in the basement. Please let us know if there is anything you need. Once you are free I would love to go for a walk & talk and hear about your adventures. Hoping this virus will be a wake up call for humanity AND the world will change for the better! RESET priorities to be on family, faith, friends, health, love, peace and treat others how we would like to be treated. Enough of the special interest groups/divisive politics! Insanity is continuing to do the same thing and expecting a different result. Good health & Gods guidance! Talk soon!
Thank Ron, and yes, Nick mentioned chatting to you. The kids are taking good care of us while we are under quarantine but thank you for your kind offer.
To your point, it’s likely the world will be a very different place when this is all over ( hopefully for the better ! )
Connect soon…..Jeff
I am glad to see that you guys have made it back safely. I have been following your incredible journey. You guys are having some great memory makers. Take care and stay safe.
Hi Gary,
So glad to hear you have enjoyed the blogs. I promise we will be back at it just as soon as it is safe to do so !
Stay safe,
Jeff
Congrats on a safe return, this has to be one of the fastest changing situations affecting the world we have seen, here is hoping all of the governments efforts world wide can slow this pandemic to ensure health care workers can keep up while remaining safe themselves. Glad you guys are back Jeff and Lois, (writing from our socially distanced home)
Thanks Ernie. Indeed, it is almost a surreal situation. And it has all happened so fast. Glad you are doing the social distance thing – it all helps !
My God you guys, feels like this could all be made into a movie. So happy you are home safe and sound. Jeff I will leave some Aero bars at the basement door for you to help ease the pain of your isolation. See you on the other side of your isolation, we’d love to catch up. Yes everyone will be 2 metres from one another…
A horror movie at times ! At least a good drama, lol ! It is awesome to be back, even if we are in lockdown for 2 weeks.
Will keep an eye out for the Aero bars…….I missed them in South America !!! And yes, look forward to connecting soon.
Hey Jeff,
Sorry to hear about your trip but glad you are safe and back home now.
At least you’ll be around to enjoy those beautiful okanagan summers.
We arrived back in Van a few days ago with mixed emotions as we cut our trip short by 6 months. It was tempting to stay but things were getting pretty tough everywhere we looked.
I’ll be staying in kelowna for a month so hopefully we can finally grab that beer and exchange travel stories.
Welcome home
Thanks Henry, and sorry your trip also got impacted. But hey, we can always restart when things get back to normal. Look forward to that beer in a couple of months !
So glad you are home, safe and well (and so is mum). Quite an “adventure” (but one you’d never want to repeat). It was great to chat this morning. Happy self isolation you two. Take care and we’ll chat soon.
Kaz & James
Thanks Kaz, it feels good to be home in the circumstances. Let’s hope this whole Covid 19 thing can be wrestled to the ground soon. Six days into 14 days isolation- just 8 to go !
So glad you are back in Canada Jeff and Lois. An additional adventure you could have likely done without out…take care and stay safe.
Thanks Heather !!
Welcome home!! So glad to hear that you are safe and sound back on Canadian soil!!! We are living through incredible times!!! Who would would have thought this could happen. Stay safe and we’ll be looking forward to future travel blogs when it becomes possible.
Hi Darlene, ( and Don ),
Thanks for the note and yes it is always good to be home and around family and friends in tough times – we are still in contact with some friends down there who have not been able to get out and their situation is pretty grim. Fingers crossed for them.
I’ve enjoyed doing the blog and no one will be happier than me when I can start it up again..!
Thanks for following along and your comment today.
Wow, so glad you guys made it home safely!
Looking forward to you resuming the weekly travel updates, hopefully in the not too distant future.
Thanks guys ! It was a relief to get on that plane, for sure !
Welcome back!
I would buy this book! You have lots of material to get started, after all, your in lock down.
All the best
Brent
Hi Brent,
I think there will be plenty of books written on this topic in the months and years ahead !
I can’t wait till it’s all in the rear view mirror and we can all get back to life as we knew it. Going to be a few months away yet I fear……sometimes it all just seems so surreal.
Hi,
We’ve been following your posts even before we entered Baja on 1/1. Our first venture south of the border. They’ve inspired us to travel south at some point. Glad you got home OK. We look forward to your further travels. Take care. Tom & Pam
Hi Tom and Pam,
That is great to hear. It was other overlanders who inspired us many years back, so glad we can “pay it forward” so to speak.
Perhaps our paths will cross one day. Keep in touch !
Jeff
Glad you’re home safe!!! I’d love to hear what’s happening to your friends left behind. Fingers crossed that your truck will be found as you left it. Hope to see you this summer!
Thank you for taking the isolation and subsequent social distancing measures seriously! This is scary for people who have parents living in a care home (me) and/or have family members with medical conditions that make them very vulnerable (also me). At least you’ll have a beautiful view to enjoy as you wait it out.
Dave and I have sold our house and are moving to our new one May 5th. All this was planned well before the virus came crashing down on us. Should be interesting…
Hi Ash !
Great to hear from you and congrats on your new home purchase – that’s always exciting…!
One set of friends is scheduled to get on a plane at 11.00 am today so I hope it is not cancelled….I know what it was like waiting ( brutal ).
We have taken the quarantine VERY seriously – have not been out for 6 days and fortunately our kids ( living upstairs ) are doing all our shopping. Six days and no symptoms so we are confident we are likely ok , but we can’t be sure for a few more days of course. We feel for those who don’t have family or friends around, or who are more vulnerable – nerve wracking.
Look forward to catching up when things settle down and it is safer – take care and pass our regards on to all at the office.
Jeff
Lucky you. I couldn’t get the airlines to take my pets. So I am truly stuck in Nicaragua. I must deal with the TIP in a weeks time. Wish me luck.
Hi Dana,
Funny you should write…Lois and I were discussing all the folks we have met along the way and how they made out and we talked about you last night, knowing the pets would complicate things ( not to mention the motor home ! ). I hope you are somewhere nice in Nicaragua and safe of course.
We are dealing with the same TIP issue in Chile – we are hearing they are being flexible in the circumstances so hope the Nicaraguans are doing likewise ?
Keep us posted on developments – crazy world eh ? Good luck !
Well, you’re the lucky ones, although stressful you made it home. This I posted on FB and it still applies.
We might be comfortable but there’s no place like home!
Ok, story so far from Bali..
All hub airports closed to transit passengers – Taipei, Singapore, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur…which means no way to get home until they open. Who knows when? We have a wait listed flight to Taipei and on to YVR April 8th but only if the airport’s open. I was in the process of buying one way tix home with Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong…they closed that airport just as I was paying for it!
However, a roof over our head, good food…and the all important G&Ts.
As a friend of mine recently said with a laugh, “Could be worse, could be me!”
Hi Garth,
Lois and I were wondering about you and Pam knowing where you are. Sounds like your “exit” story was a bit like ours – a few false starts ! I hope you make it April 8th.
You have your G and T’s and family there with you – it could be worse !
Beers back in Kelowna when this is all over !!
Look forward to that, but might be awhile. All flights from Taipei to YVR cancelled for all of April, but one into LAX. Not sure about that, they’d probably lock us up, coming from Taipei..!
Yes, they likely would. At least you are stuck in a nice place !
Glad you are home safe and sound. Thank you for self isolating. Stay patient and we will all get through this.
Thanks Tanya !
Please say hi to all in Penticton for me – wishing you guys all the best. Stay safe.
Jeff
Wow, what an adventure. Glad to hear you made it back safe. I was enjoying your weekly updates and pics
Hi Joe,
Yes, it was a lot of fun doing the travelling and writing the blogs – I will miss it ! We look forward to the day when we can start up again. Glad you were following along.
I know you still have extended family back in Italy and what is happening there is beyond tragic. I hope your family are not in the heavily affected areas…?
Stay safe.
Jeff
Epic! Happy you managed to find yourselves back home.
Well, perhaps not so “epic”, but we are certainly glad to be back. Never has home felt so good !
Hope you, Kathy and kids are all well – stay safe !
so glad to hear you are home safe and sound….was thinking of you
Thanks Rani, appreciate the note. And yes, it feels good to be back…!
Hope you and the whole team are doing well in Merritt. Stay safe !
Glad you made it home safely. I was just talking to Mayumi yesterday that I was surprised you were still able to travel. I was wondering if you were going to get stuck somewhere in a lockdown. Eventually you can resume your trip. Best wishes.
Hi Gary and Mayumi !
Thanks for the comment – and nice to hear from you guys.
Yes, we too had become fearful of getting stuck somewhere unpleasant and for an indefinite period. Not a nice thought at all and our heart goes out to those ( from all over the world ) who are stuck somewhere far from home. Getting back is becoming almost impossible.
It is certainly our hope, and our plan, to go back and carry on as soon as we can – our vehicle is still down there of course, but a timeline for that would now seem months away at best.
Let’s hope that the world can get on top of this hideous virus soon. These are truly extraordinary times.
Glad you were able to get home, and are well. These are really tough times, quite challenging and it seems overseas travel is on pause for quite some time, at least for Aussies. We are super glad we got home when we did in early March. Have had to cancel lots of travel plans and refocus on home for the foreseeable future, but if that’s as tough as it gets we’ll have little to complain about
Stay well xx
Hi Fiona !
Yes, so are we ! Travel is on pause for all of us for a while it seems. Hoping for the best ( returning to Chile after our summer ) but preparing possibly for a longer delay. And yes, as you say, in the scheme of things, we have little to complain about……
Stay well guys !
Welcome back home ! I am glad you guys made it (and found a safe place to store the truck)
Hi Edison !
Yes, and we are glad to be back as well. Very fortunate to find a safe and secure place for the vehicle at short notice, too.
Now, hopefully we all get through this thing safe and sound so we can start getting back to normal later this year ( whatever the new normal looks like ! ).
Cheers, and keep in touch…..Jeff