One might think that  pristine Cala Goloritze (beach) would be a tough act to follow, but Sardinia’s northeast coast had even more in store. This was, after all, the most famed part of the island and Sardinia’s Costa Smerelda ( Emerald Coast ) lay just ahead of us – some Germans we’d met even suggested we spend most of our time right here.

In fact it’s probably one of the most scenic areas of the island with a continuous line of bays, beaches, beautiful little towns and even a high mountain pass ( the views from which were very impressive ). Trekking north we passed by Orosei ( known for its historic old town and nearby marble mine ) and the bigger centre of Olbia. For us the most picturesque town was Palau, jumping off point for the Maddelena islands and just an excellent base for travels in this part of Sardinia. The Maddalena islands were certainly worthy of the ferry trek over there but we were disappointed by the lack of camping options – the only commercial campground had been closed by the local authorities and signs everywhere made it clear that wild camping was not a wise plan. Our Park4Night app listed several recent cases where campers were given heavy fines. Odd, because we were here out of season and had not experienced this before in Italy ( and only rarely in Europe generally ).

If the Maddalena islands were a bit underwhelming ( more the circumstances than the location itself  ), our next stop ( highly recommended by a crew member on the ferry to Sardinia ) really took our breath away. La Pelosa is a silky white sand beach with shallow crystal clear warm waters, and, on the days we spent there, was set against the most vibrant blue sky – not a cloud to be seen. Magnificent ! It actually also featured in the previously mentioned “World’s 50 Best Beaches 2025”, although it was well down from the top. Surprising, because we would’ve put it right up there with Carla Goloritze – ahead of it, in fact, if one factors in accessibility ( you can drive right up to this one ! ). Making those two days even more pleasant was the fact that, just 5kms away was a municipally provided wild camping location right on another beach, this one replete with a cosy little beach bar run by a charming Brazilian/Italian fellow. Unsurprisingly it was a very popular layover and our only regret was not finding it until the very end of our Sardinia experience.

With just a day left before our ferry from Porto Torres to Barcelona, we took a brief detour down the west coast to riverside Bosa, one of Sardinia’s real hidden gems  (according to an Instagram source). Certainly a “gem” it was but given we caught the last day of their annual beer festival it most definitely was not “hidden” ! The place was packed with locals and tourists alike filling its bars and restaurants. It’s extremely colorful and the old town is exceptionally well kept, with the riverside setting just adding to the ambience and proving Sardinia is not just all beaches.

Sardinia has probably been our favourite Mediterranean island and we’re certainly glad we made the effort to get here. It was a long 12 hour car ferry ride in from Sicily and leaving involves an even longer 14 hour car ferry ride out to Barcelona, in Spain.

Till next week…..