Please excuse the MacArthur-like analogy but, 1 year, 7 months and 14 days after beating a hasty retreat from Chile in the face of a global pandemic, finally we “have returned” ! Never in our wildest thoughts ( back in March 2020 ) did we expect we would be away that long. Fortunately, the time back in Kelowna was quite productively spent and the upside was that it was wonderful to re-connect with so many friends and family during our time at home. But, global travel is most definitely back “on” and we are genuinely thrilled to be on the road again ( well, almost ! ).

Last time time we saw a sight like this the plane was bringing us home from Chile. Our plane at Vancouver airport


On November 4th, after a tortuous, stressful, circuitous and incredibly tiring 44 hour journey from Kelowna, BC, Canada, we landed at Santiago International airport in Chile. Trust me when I say there were days when I wondered if the world would ever get back to ‘normal enough’ for that to happen. For those ( like I ) who have been engrossed in how the world has tackled COVID, Chile ( after a very rough start ) quickly moved into the big leagues and tackled the vaccination of their population with gusto. Currently one of the most vaccinated nations in the world with almost 80% fully vaccinated, they are actively doing 3rd shots ( boosters ) and have opened up to foreign travel, albeit with some fairly rigorous requirements. As such we feel comfortable being here and have now seen first hand how impressive and organized their process is for ensuring foreign travellers do not risk the success they have had in fighting COVID 19. Travellers need to be double vaccinated, compete comprehensive declarations on-line prior to arrival, have adequate medical insurance ( covering Covid ) and be prepared for 5-7 day quarantine on arrival ( waived if you pass an obligatory, but free, PCR test on arrival in the country with results delivered in a maximum of 24 hours – ours came in 9 ). For the first 10 days in the county you complete a daily attestation as to your health with a simple an easy to use app. So, they pretty well have it all covered ! The airport process was well organized, friendly, and easy to navigate. Slick……..


Friendly Chilean airport staff guiding us through the COVID protocols on arrival
Airport staff ready to do the nasal swabs. Fast, friendly and results same day !

Readers who have traveled on long, multi-stop international flights in the new COVID world will know what I mean when I say – air travel sure isn’t what it used to be. Unquestionably the most drawn out, nerve-wracking, tiring, bureaucratic and at times painfully frustrating experience we have ever endured during our many years of air travel and we are certainly glad it’s now behind us.  The stress multiplier, these days anyway, is the need for a negative PCR ( Covid  ) test taken before you leave home and now required to enter many countries ( Chile being one such). The labs take 30-48 hours to provide a result ( in our part of Canada anyway ) and you ( typically ) need to be in the destination country ( or at least on the last flight sector to that country ) no later than 72 hours after the test was taken. When you consider our flight time ( with layovers ) was 34 hours you can see that it gets a little, ummm, shall we say….tight ! I won’t bore folks with the intimate details but a heads up to those planning long, multi- sector, international flights now that the world is opening up – it’s a nail biter, and make absolutely sure you have all your ducks ( or should I say “docs” ) in a row. Not for the faint of heart.

Lois doing some last minute on line documentation for the Chilean government so we could board our flight in Vancouver. When we left Houston ( our last stopover ) for Santiago 6 people were denied boarding due to inadequate documentation. Ouch ! Bags were removed from the plane and we left an hour late


We had anticipated some of this and to ease the pain of the extremely long return journey, and the associated rigorous COVID protocols, we had at first decided to overnight in a hotel en route to Santiago. Sadly the 72 hour rule precluded that ( our PCR tests would then expire before we arrived ) so the only other option was a business class flight ( getting soft, I know, I know, but we convinced ourselves we deserved a break ). And hey, we had the points, why not use them ? Pretty reasonable on a one way flight actually. Those delightful airport lounges, and very comfy fully-reclining, wide seats on the plane really made a difference this time (though I am concerned Lois may get used to it ! ).

We are very used to walking right past these seats when boarding a plane- nice to be sitting in them this time !


Now that we are back in Chile, we are excited to complete the Pan American highway ( destination Ushuaia ) and beyond that further exploring  in Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil and possibly eastern Bolivia. Our goal is to do that by April / May next year. It’s unlikely we will tackle the Guyana’s – a loooong way north and having lost so much time to Covid ( and with a wedding coming ) we just have to make some decisions on what our travel priorities are. More on that in the months ahead but our immediate plan is to travel Chile’s legendary Carretera Austral and other parts of Patagonia en route to Ushuaia. It’s tremendously exciting and has always been one of, if not THE, primary goals of this whole journey.

On a more personal note, I mentioned a wedding above. Lois and I were thrilled to learn that our daughter is getting married in September 2022 so that means we will almost certainly be back in BC all through our Canadian summer next year helping plan that. The plan beyond that is to continue overlanding later in September next year and we are currently weighing up possible destinations – so many countries, so little time.COVID cooperating of course !


Stay tuned, and thanks for staying with us during COVID- I hope this finds all our readers well and, like us, chomping at the bit to get on the road again…………! I’ll close with a few pics of our first couple of days back in Chile, spent around Vina Del Mar and Valparaiso. We expect to pick up the truck on Sunday this week and start heading south right away.

Street scene in Vina Del Mar
Vina Del Mar
Vina Del Mar from our hotel
Valparaiso murals
Valparaiso backstreet murals and colored houses
Valparaiso mural
Valparaiso neighbourhood of colorful houses up above the Queen Victoria funicular – very steep in “Valpo”