As of last week’s blog we advised that, with the tempo changing quickly in the region, and out of an abundance of caution, very regrettably, we made our way out of Oman. In short, we drove 1200kms in two days, straight back to Muscat from Salalah ( missing many of the very sights we had come to Oman to see ), dropped the car off and flew out to Cairo, Egypt ( more on “Why Cairo ?” later ).  There was much more complexity ( in what may have seemed like a pretty simple decision ) than one might realize so I’ll elaborate further on that in the passages below – see the last section, headed “Behind the Scenes”.  Skip it if you are just pleased to know that we are safe, that we are “out”, and the machinations don’t matter – it’s at the very bottom of the blog. But first, here’s what our last days in wonderful Oman looked  like – we were very sad to leave so soon and to have missed many of its greatest attractions.

The weather has been literally perfect for the last seven weeks ( Oman being no exception ) so we spent a lot of time poolside and beachside, knowing that, back in Europe it will be some time before we’ll be able to enjoy either. Soak it up while you can, we figured. Had a most enjoyable few days with our Swiss friends before the decision was made to pull the pin – ironically, they left Salalah the very same day.

Palapa’s on the beach provided by our hotel. It was tough making the decision to leave this.
In our haste to return to Muscat we very sadly had to drive right by some of Oman’s greatest attractions ( Wadi Shab, Bimma Sinkhole among them ). We did see a few lesser wadi’s, such as this.
The road back to Muscat, mostly along the coast, provided a different topography than the inland route we travelled south on.

Arriving back in Muscat, much earlier than we had expected, and with very limited time to explore it.

Heading north back towards Muscat there were some of Oman’s best sights still ahead of us and with our original schedule allowing for a few days sightseeing at these locations we chose a route ( substantially coastal ) that would have taken them all in. Then came some further news that rocked us somewhat – Salalah, where we had spent a peaceful and fun week, was just attacked by a drone ( they hit the port, quite a way out of town, and no casualties or material damage was suffered, but it was unsettling, no question ). We decided then and there to move our exit date forward as far as we could. There would only be time to get to Muscat, visit ( briefly ) with friends Al and Barb, and see a bit of Muscat before we needed to be on a plane. Tired, but happy to be there, we reached Muscat, had an afternoon and evening with them, taking in a  few sights, and then flew out the next day. It just all seemed to happen so fast.

Good friends, Al and Barb, in front of their house, where we stayed on our way into, and, rather suddenly, on our way out of Oman.
The American International School in Muscat ( TAISM ), where our friends teach. Many embassy personnel kids attend, and it’s an American school, so they had access to updates direct from the US Embassy.
A good time was had by all…..
In our last half day in Muscat we got a little tour of the city – thanks Al !
Selfie ( with Corona’s to celebrate getting together ! ).
Enjoyed an evening drink on Al’s deck.
Muscat’s famous Sultan Qaboos Mosque.
The fort.

Omani men enjoying “iftar” after the daily fast ends ( sunset, during Ramadan ).


So that was how the week ( or almost a week ) played out. I’m writing this from chaotic Cairo and by the time it goes out we should be back in Athens with our van- back doing our usual thing !

Till next week…..


Behind The Scenes – The Decision To Leave ( And What Was Involved )

Neither of us are ones to easily panic, and make plans in haste- we usually carefully weigh things up logically and calmly and try to filter out the “noise” then make rational decisions about when and where we travel, considering any risks that may be involved. Nor was this our first time dealing with “drama” – we’d navigated our way safely out of China during the Tiananmen protests of June, 1989 ( the long way out – over the Karakoram Highway to Pakistan ! ), and safely exited Chile as the Covid pandemic exploded around the world in March 2020. These things happen ( sadly ) and our usual approach is to keep calm and carry on, whenever we possibly can. We could have done so here, but a few things played on our mind this time cementing the decision to leave:

1) Getting stuck here with no way out ( and it can happen ) would be no fun, even though Al and Barb had graciously offered us their place “for as long as we needed” ( thanks again, guys ! ). So we were better off than most, some with no place to stay if things got bad.

2) We of course have family (and friends) concerned about our well-being and we don’t want to be stressed, nor have people stressing over us, especially our very pregnant daughter carrying our second grandchild – we definitely plan to be home for the birth and any protracted issue here could jeopardize that. We knew people that got stuck in South America for many months during Covid. It does happen ! We do read, and follow, government advisories from the Canadian government ( as well as others, including Australia – we find they generally align their advice ). See the video above which references the sources we had access to. We also had access to the US government advisories, and since it is the US that really knows what is going on here we ultimately put serious stock in their commentaries regarding the Gulf crisis. It was one of theirs that actually cemented our decision to pull out

3) Finally, we felt we’d had a lot of “luck” so far and did not want to push it. It was absolutely the right call NOT to bring our van over here from Greece- glad we did not have that to worry about. Just getting ourselves out was a major headache and considerable expense, the mind boggles at how we would have shipped our van out ( not via the Israeli port we would have shipped in through, certainly ! ). The major shipping lines were cancelling services all over the Middle East. We definitely made a lucky call there. We also left Saudi just before it got hit and then left Bahrain shortly after that – literally days before missiles landed there. We left Salalah here in Oman and just hours later a drone landed there. We seemed to be luckier whenever we moved, so figured it was just best to get out while we were ahead.

Just one of the many bulletins about shipping challenges in and around the region. If you could get space on a ship out of the Arabian Peninsula ( and you almost certainly could not ) I can’t imagine the cost. So glad we did not have to.

Below is a series of images that show what we were seeing here on TV, and when we were seeing it, as well as the various government travel advisories that were coming in ( and when ). It was initially calm, then just a generally escalating tone, (not dramatic initially). When the Canadians shifted Oman to “Avoid Non Essential Travel” ( or, leave if you are there and don’t need to be) and around the same time the US State Department  advised all Americans to “Get out of the Middle East, by commercial means while you can”, we just pushed everything forward, literally flying as soon as we could get on a flight. If it was not safe for Americans, it probably was not for us.

Hotel room, Al Jazeera was the only English language channel. Kept us up to date.

An early update on Oman from Canada – be careful , things could get worse here, basically.
We had initially bought a Pegasus ticket to Istanbul but when we saw this, decided to buy another ( to Cairo ) just to make sure that, one way or another, we could get out of Oman.
As more and more of these messages appeared on airline websites we realized that more UAE and Saudi residents would be flocking to Muscat
Things went from “be careful” to “don’t hang around” fairly quickly.
Then this one from Canada – basically, don’t stick around, you will be on your own if things get bad. As we were making plans to leave Salalah the next day, this next one was published from the Americans ( below ).
This one really had us concerned – essentially, “get the hell out of the whole Middle East as soon as you can, however you can”. Literally impossible for everyone to do that all at once, of course.

We did get questions and suggestions from family, friends and readers, of course. Some asked why we did not just “get out right away”. Nice thought, but when everyone races for the exits at once there just are not enough seats/planes to accommodate. We were also safe, comfortable and there was no advisory from the government to get out of Oman right away. Oman was not even involved for the first 4 or 5 days. We were where everyone wanted to be ( certainly those in the Gulf states ). Others asked “Why did you go to Cairo ?” Simple – there are no direct Muscat to Athens flights, and most indirect flights go via one or other of the Gulf states, all of which were grappling with restricted air space or closed airports. We did not want to be stuck there ! We chose two cities close to Athens that had direct flights and ideally had a flight route away from the area of hostilities – Istanbul and Cairo both qualified, so we bought tickets to both and paid extra to be able to cancel the one we did not use. Cairo just gave us the easiest, fastest route and had an easy connection on the Athens. When we needed to move it forward, it was the easiest ticket to move.

So that’s a little background for those interested. It’s always more complicated than just “jumping on a plane and leaving”. One never knows if the right call was made until the dust settles, hopefully, for everyone’s sake, it settles soon. We were very sorry to leave Oman – loved it there and do plan to revisit at some point in the future. But it certainly feels better to now be on the outside looking in, rather than the other way around.

Driving to Muscat airport we saw a ton of cars with UAE plates, all driving to Oman because Dubai and Abu Dhabi airports were hit and were closed at times. This made getting tickets out much more difficult and of course, MUCH more expensive.
Never have we been so happy to see a plane waiting for us at an airport – ever ! Our plane from Muscat to Cairo.