That’s a long blog subject but the last 10 days have indeed been busy, exciting, and ( for us personally ) very momentous !
The signature attraction in ( or rather, near ) Puerto Natales is the trekkers “Mecca”, Torres del Paine National Park ( locally referred to as “TDP” ). Whether you come for the famous “W” or “O” ( lengthy and challenging hiking circuits whose routes resemble those letters ) or simply to drive, ride or take the myriad shorter walks through the park as many do ( the latter not requiring advance booking and reservations ), one is never disappointed. The place is, in a word stupendous – we enjoyed 3 leisurely days there, did several shorter hikes, and never tired of the unique mountain shapes ( especially the famous “towers” and “horns” ), turquoise lakes, glaciers and abundant wildlife (highlights being the sighting of several condors and 2 pumas – well beyond our expectations ! ). Below are some of the shots we took- it really is a place like no other…!
As hard as it was to drag ourselves away from TDP, not far south were two other “attractions”. Representing both the purpose and in a way the climax of this long drive, (but, hopefully, by no means the end of it ) the first of the two was the Fin de Camion ( “end of the road“ ) at Fuerte Bulnes, just south of Punta Arenas.
Our journey on the PanAmericana started at the northernmost road/community in continental North America, ( the Dalton Highway at Deadhorse, Alaska, USA ) back in May 2019, and concluded ( albeit significantly Covid interrupted ! ) this past Sunday, over 43,000kms later at the southernmost road/community on the South American continent, on Route 9 near Fuerte Bulnes, Chile.
From here, the truck finally now points ( mostly at least ! ) north ! In case you wondered, no, we do NOT intend to drive it all the way back to Canada ( but it’s amazing how many people ask us that ) !!! Omicron travel restrictions permitting, we will drive up through most of Argentina, Uruguay and possibly southern Brazil before shipping it home from either Santiago, Buenos Aires or Montevideo sometime in the northern Spring.
Rather fitting that the last 18kms to the “end of the road” sign and road barrier on Route 9 was gravel ( getting used to it down in these parts ! ) since that is exactly what we started on in Alaska’s far north. A great feeling of accomplishment ( and much perseverance! ) to have completed it, but at the same time a little sadness that our biggest milestone was now behind us. The Fuerte Bulnes area is very scenic and peaceful, right on the Straits of Magellan and fittingly perhaps, we wild camped right there, toasting to the completion of this part of our overlanding journey – very serene listening only to the birds and the waves and watching ships pass through the very same strait that Ferdinand Magellan first navigated 500 years ago, way back in 1520 – this part of Chile, known as Magallanes, bears the Spanish spelling of his name on streets, plazas and buildings everywhere.
A short ( 2 hour ) ferry ride across the above-mentioned straits brought us to the mystical island of Tierra del Fuego ( “Land of Fire” in English, known as TDF locally ) and the second of the two “attractions” south of Puerto Natales. Known for its remoteness, colder temperatures, arid landscapes, lots of sheep and unbelievably strong winds, Tierra del Fuego is split between Chile and Argentina and has attractions of its own, most immediately for us being the King Penguin colony just east of Porvenir (and still on the Chilean side). We’d not seen this during our 2003 visit to TDF (which was mostly spent in Argentinian Ushuaia on the south eastern side of the island ). It’s unknown to many but there are in fact a few places outside Antarctica that offer a place to see penguins in the wild; western Tierra Del Fuego being one we were not going to pass it up. And, King Penguins no less, second only in size to the Emperor penguins
The whole “end of the road” thing is actually a bit contentious down here – speak to a Chilean and the Pan Americana ends ( as it starts ) on “continental“ South America ( at Fuerte Bulnes ). The Argentines will have none of it and say it ends on Tierra Del Fuego ( even though it’s an island and not connected to the South American “continent” ). Thought we would do the former in full and as much of the latter as border restrictions allow ! A measure of just how ridiculous these “extremity” claims have become – Chile has now reclassified the small town of Puerto Williams ( which lies just south of Argentinian Ushuaia, albeit also on an island ) as a ‘city’ so they can boast the “most southerly city in the world” taking that claim from nearby Ushuaia, Argentina. Imagine, a “city” …….with a population of less than 3,000 people !
While in TIerra Del Fuego some exciting news emerged re border crossings that was particularly relevant to us. Chile and Argentina were, it seemed, bringing forward the opening of one of the southern Patagonian crossings from January 1st to December 22nd….just days away ! We had long hoped to be in El Calafate ( Argentina ) for Christmas where we promised to treat each other to a nice hotel for a few days – if this news were true we might just be able to swing that. The wild camping of late had been great and driving the “long endless roads” of southern Patagonia appealing but the thought of a nice room, hot shower every day and a little space to spread out for Christmas was, well, tempting too ! With a PCR test possible in Puerto Natales and same day results available this just might work – the fact that we could not cross to Ushuaia on Tierra Del Fuego actually saved us a couple of precious days so a plan was hatched to head back to Natales, get our PCR test, and drive on to Argentina.
As we ( hopefully ) close out our Chilean chapter late this week both Lois and I wanted to wish all of our regular readers a very Merry Christmas ( or rather, Felice Navidad !!!!! ) and Happy New Year. Please keep the comments coming, we love hearing from everyone !
Merry Christmas Jeff and Lois
Thank you for this fantastic blog and stunning pictures, such a nice distraction in these times of only Covid in the news. What an adventure and accomplishment, Congratulations! Safe travels. Big snow and cold up here at the 50th parallel.
Cheers!
Brent
Merry Christmas to you and the family as well, Brent ! Happy to provide a little relief from the endless regimen of Covid updates ( which is depressing ! ). People are all wearing masks down here and the social distancing thing is big but beyond that, so far anyway, life seems to go on ! Fortunately we managed to get into Argentina yesterday so this week should be a new adventure in another place !
Wow, TDF reminds me of Black Tusk @ Garibaldi on steroids! What are those trees along Magellan?
Hi there Jeff & Lo
Just love your blog. Such an amazing experience. So sorry we missed your call yesterday. Wishing you a very Merry Argentinian Christmas & a bit of luxury for a few days!! We had a lovely day with the Forbes families yesterday. At 93 mum ( with a bit of help) was still doing most of the preparation. What a superstar. Look forward to your next & future blogs
Hi Kaz,
Yes too bad we missed everyone with the call but got mum later in the day. She said everyone had a great day and she sounded good. A quiet Christmas for us here of course !
Hi Chris, and Merry Christmas to you, the family and all the team at MP ! Funny you should mention Garibaldi as we had thought the same thing ! Re the trees,I am afraid I don’t know but they were very good at shielding us from the wind ( and they looked nice ! ). You’d love to drive your Jeep on some of these roads down here – perfect for the conditions !
“WOW, Wow, Woooow, WOW, WOW, WOW, Wow, Whooa, Wow”… Me reading your blog and enjoying the amazing photos! What an incredible experience!!!
Wonderful to see the King penguins. We loved seeing the African penguins near Cape Town. Were you able to get quite close to them. In South Africa you could get close enough to touch them (at your peril 😄).
I hope you’re having a nice, ‘remote’ Christmas.
All the best from Charlie & Penny in the Great White North! WE THE NORTH!!! 😊
Good to hear you made it to Argentina for Christmas. A bit of a relief I expect. Did you remember to cancel your reservation on the ferry? 😉
Do they use the expression, “WE THE SOUTH” down there? 😜
Onward and Upward!
Hi Charlie,
Yes, glad we made it, only just though ! Have not cancelled that ferry yet – but thanks for the reminder ! We saw them in South Africa as well ( Simonstown ? ) – they were the smaller ones but we did get closer to them. We were probably 80-100 feet away from the ones in Tierra Del Fuego and no, could not touch them.
Christmas has been nice, but certainly different than the last ones. The warmth is great but there is not much Christmas decorating around ( at least in El Calafate ). It was mostly a FaceTime Christmas this year !
Thank you for posting such beautiful pictures ! We really enjoyed reading your blog. It may inspire me to have one of my own during our trip to Uruguay. Merry Christmas ⛄️
Hope you do ! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year !
Wonderful stuff Jeff. We’ve enjoyed every word of your blogs…a great relief from looking out of our window to the snow beyond.
Thanks Garth, glad the blog is having a medicinal impact lol ! Hey, the snow will soon be gone and you will be enjoying the Lo ng days of sunshine ! We must connect for a beer in Spring . Train Station Pub ?
What an extraordinary adventure you are having. It’s part of the world few would have seen, or even heard about. Amazing pics. From all of us over here in Oz, we wish you a very Happy Christmas – one you won’t forget on a hurry I’m sure! We can’t wait to get back on the road again in early 2022 – all being well of course.
Thanks Anne, tried you guys yesterday, missed you. Hope you are all having a great Xmas in Oz and I do hope you and Ian can get on the road soon – give our regards to all !
Merry Christmas to you both. I sure enjoy you taking us virtually on your journey. Take care and stay safe!
Cheers
Tonia, you are most welcome ! Merry Christmas to you too !
Merry Christmas Jeff and Lois !
Such beautiful pictures and love the blog…. Such great news you arrived in Argentina in time to celebrate Happy Ho Ho! & enjoy some of the creature comforts sacrificed along your latest beautiful, incredible journey.
What a great way to end the year and a fabulous way to start the next!
Best wishes as you move on to this next adventure.
Cheers! Terri
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Hi Terri,
Yes, glad we made it “over the line” so to speak and we have enjoyed a nice warm, sunny Christmas Day here in El Calafate. We will miss Chile but there is also much to see and do in Argentina !
Lois will write you soon , she wants to say hi ! All the best to Steve and the kids as well !
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Your trip looks amazing. Really enjoying travelling with you via your blog. What a beautiful area. Live the Penguins.
Thanks Lorna and a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you, Keith and the kids. Those penguins were pretty cool !
Herzlichen Glückwunsch! Enhorabuena! Amazing!
We are so happy for the two of you and celebrated one end of the endless roads with a Torres del Paine beer.
Good luck for the upcoming kilometres!
Ella and Paul
Guten tag Ella und Paul !
So nice to hear from you – we wondered where you ended up after TDP ? Hope you enjoyed it ( I am sure you did ! ). As I recall you guys were coming to Argentina as well, hope you made it ? Send me a note via WhatsApp and let us know.
Cheers !
Merry Christmas Jeff and Lois! We’re enjoying reading your weekly adventures and following along on your journey. So much fun to meet people along the way and share stories.
Wishing you a happy new year and best wishes in 2022!
Dale and Colleen
Thanks Colleen and likewise to you Dale and the kids ! You are right – the places and sights are great but it’s the people you meet that make life the most interesting !
Happy New Year !
Merry Christmas you two !
Truly spectacular photography and such wonderful, and I must say knowledgeable narration. Safe travels my friends…
Happy New Year !!!
Hi Scott,
Merry Christmas to the Porritt clan as well ! Thanks for staying with us – we think of you EVERY a time a motorcycle ( well, at least a BMW motorcycle ! ) passes by. Have a great New Year yourselves and look forward to connecting in Spring !
Congratulations Jeff and Lois! What an achievement!
I’m curious what your favorite moments were?
Hi Ash !
Great to hear from you and yes, it was certainly a big milestone for us…!
Wow, favourite moments ? That is a toughie as there have been so many amazing moments on the journey, but, at least in terms of places visited and/or sights seen it would be tough to beat the salt plains of Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia, the natural wildlife of the Galápagos and, possibly a bit of a surprise to some – the Andean Condors we saw at Colque Canyon near Arequipa in Peru. But check out the next blog as the Moreno glacier in El Calafate is pretty stunning too !!!!
Please give a big hi to all back in Kelowna and stay warm ( I hear it’s a bit chilly of late ) !
Hi Jeff & Lois, I love to read your blog about all the interesting places you’ve been! You’ve taken such great pictures of your travels and it’s nice to learn more about South America in someone else’s eyes that are right in the thick of it all. It’s funny, when you posted the picture of the long stretch of paved road, it reminded me so much of the prairies where you can drive and drive and never come across a curve in the road! I hope you have a Happy New Year and stay safe and healthy!! I look forward to your future blogs. Lyle
Hi Lyle !
Happy New Year and glad you are still enjoying them. Let’s connect for a coffee back in Wilden when we get return in Spring. Stay safe ( and warm, I hear there is a bit of a cold spell right now ! )
Happy New Year Jeff and
Lois. Love reading about your amazing journey. Awesome pics too. Cheers, Dave and Laura
Thanks Laura, and a very happy new year to you Dave and the family as well. Saw your Christmas pictures in PG, looked great!!