While Poland spent 45 years under the Soviet sphere of influence, the three Baltic states of Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia were actually part of the Soviet union during that same period – an unwilling part mind you, but nonetheless an integral part of the former Soviet Union. Unlike Poland, each each of the three still has a significant percentage of ethnic Russians in their population. As such, we were very curious as to what we might find driving through each of these tiny countries. 

Historic Trakai castle, near Vilnius. The first of several attractions we would visit, which were “closed” on Mondays.

Coming from the south ( Poland ) our first Baltic state was Lithuania and we headed towards the beautiful capital of Vilnius which nudges up close to Belorussia. Just prior Vilnius is the historic castle town of Trakai with its 13th century castle set on a very picturesque lake. A superb sunny Monday had us enthused to wander inside only to find on arrival that the castle ( undergoing renovations ) was closed on Mondays ( a situation we would encounter at another castle barely a week later – what is it with castles in Europe on Monday’s ? ). Enjoyed what was possible from the outside.

Trakai castle is on a most picturesque setting – could not go on so we walked the grounds as it was a gorgeous sunny day.

All three states have scenic capital cities with exceptionally beautiful old towns, and in normal circumstances, Vilnius, capital of Lithuania, is probably the pick of the three – but it was just a bitterly cold and windy day when we were there so the visit was shorter as a result. 

Cobblestone street, Vilnius Old Town.
Ditto.
Vilnius Cathedral

Ditto.

From Lithuania it’s just a short hop to Latvia – it was super easy driving, with great roads and it was easy to navigate our way to historic Riga, it’s capital right on the Baltic Sea. A much improved day gave us the opportunity to explore at a more leisurely pace. Again it was easy to park ( right on the waterfront in this case ) giving easy access to the heart of the city. As for Vilnius, plenty of historic sights and excellent cafe’s and patisserie’s which we took full advantage of ( easy to get hooked on that stuff in Europe ! ).

Lithuania was very flat ( like Holland )! We would soon discover it was true of most of the area of the Baltic states..
One of the more unusual overnight parking locations. A fuel station near Vilnius ( we were kind of stuck, and “any port in a storm” as they say ). Safe, flat, access to amenities and fast WIFi, just €3 per night. They saved us.
House of the Black Heads, Riga
Historic St Peter’s Lutheran Church.
View of Riga from St Peter’s Church spire.
Wall with coat of arms of all Latvian cities and municipalities

Museum of the Occupation of Latvia details the period under German occupation in WW2. Another one we hit on a day it was closed – fortunately some of the material was displayed outside.
Great parking in downtown Riga, right on the waterfront and just 10 minutes from the Old Town. Courtesy, Park4Night.

Most of our time in the Baltics, however, was spent in and around Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, the northernmost of the three Baltic states. For a few reasons, it was probably our favourite of the three –  we enjoyed the best weather, found our favourite cafe in Europe so far ( 3 visits, no less ! ) and explored not just Tallinn, but a bit more of the area outside it, including scenic Lahemaa National Park. Beyond just the sights, though, it was in Tallinn that we had to arrange our ferry crossing to Helsinki ( Finland ), and a few other personal things so we just spent more time there and consequently got a better feel for the city. It definitely enchanted us. 

A beautiful drive up the Baltic Sea coast from Riga to Tallinn – taking morning coffee break at a rest stop and soaking up the view.
After Riga, destination Tallinn, in Estonia. Our last stop before shipping to Scandinavia.
Tallinn Old Town
One of the entry gates to historic Tallinn Old Town.
Same gate, from inside.
A very frank and candid look at the methods of the KGB.
Former KGB “interrogation” cells in Tallinn. Very interesting visit to see and hear what transpired inside.
Inside the KGB interrogation cells.
Beautiful old church inside the Old Town.
Main square, Old Town.
Main Square, Tallinn Old Town.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a beautiful Russian Orthodox Church, Tallinn Old Town.
Needed a prescription filled and obtained it from Europe’s longest continuously operating pharmacy in Tallinn- dating back to 1422. Fascinating to check it all out.
Lois inside
We’ve become quite addicted to our morning ritual and sampling some of Europe’s best. The cafe beside the Tourist Info office in Tallinn became our “regular” during the days we spent there. Simply delicious drinks !

In all three of the countries we took in their main museums and and explored their recent history- they only regained their independence in 1994, have fully embraced it and are all firmly now in the European camp. It’s like they never left ! These counties may be small, and probably deserved more time than we allotted to them ( certainly the first two anyway ) but one can’t spend forever in every country, especially with the new Schengen rules so after a week between the three we loaded our van on the Viking Line ferry and crossed the Baltic Sea to Helsinki. More on that in the coming blog !

Farewell Estonia – on board the Viking Line ferry. It was an excellent day for the crossing to Helsinki, sunny and calm.

Till next week…..